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Shoe Modification


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Just a bit of background...I injured my left foot early last year in the ball of the big toe area - tore stuff and ripped a small bone partway off. Anyway, it kept me from cragging but I was able to do easy alpine rock with no problem as long as I could avoid toeing anything. Approaches were doable only after I purchased these nifty carbon fiber inserts.

 

So this year I spent three months in the climbing gym and all was going well - no pain. We moved outside a few weeks ago and already my foot is starting to feel more and more pain.

 

I want to keep cragging because I've got a few "harder" routes planned for the year and need to keep the arms and head in shape.

 

Maybe not the best approach but I'm wondering if I can get my left shoe modified to fit a trimmed down insert and still fit my foot. Just trimming the insert won't do because the shoes are pretty tight. Anyone here familiar with the mechanics of resoling/reconstructing these things that might have a suggestion for stiffening then up?

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It is probably cheapest to just buy stiffer shoes? Five ten newton or grandstone are supposed to be their stiffest, or find some old board lasted high tops used somewhere.

 

Climbing shoes can be stretched but i don't think anyone really does it in a controlled manner. I've heard rumors of someone pushing out high tops with a microwave and a broom stick and an old trick is to get the shoes wet and then wear them while they dry to accelerator them forming to your foot.

 

A good resole should not effect the shape of the shoe though the shape of the last they use inside of it while they glue the new sole on can have some effect.

 

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