Craig Pope Posted April 1, 2011 Posted April 1, 2011 (edited) Trip: Hyalite Canyon - Bourbon Tan M8+ Date: 1/12/2011 Trip Report: I had been looking at the Hangover headwall all season, checking out possibilities, scrambling up to the classic Hyalite "kitty litter cobble" thinking: 'some of this might go easier than expected', and, 'why the hell has no one put a mixed line up? It's visible from the parking lot!! I drooled over my beer as I sat on the tailgate with a beer daydreaming about the method of 'cleaning' or bolting a new line on this Headwall would be. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11w/video_bourbon_tan'>http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11w/video_bourbon_tan Then, while in throwing around ideas with some friends at Montana Ale Works, JoJo challenged me to: "just put the thing up, man!! I can't believe no one has done it yet-it'll be a classic for sure!" So I got some 5 1/2 inch bolts, a cordless, a good buddy Marko, and some gumption. Sacrificed a day of climbing, cleaned, put the first 3 bolts in this bombay chimney, then had to leave back home in moscow. Returned to the gnawing images of unfinished business, put the last bolt in, plus a set of p1 anchors, and sent it with Marko Pujic and Pete Tapley. thanks guys for the the incouragement. Super fun route, JoJo!! Check out Pete's video of the first ascent at: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11w/video_bourbon_tan Gear Notes: optional gear at beginning, (small nut/#1 Matercam), to four bolts through the roof, ending in natural gear, (good sling over chokstone, larger set of nuts, .5-2 Camalots, with 10 cm stubbies), to anchors. Pitch two can be protected-depending on conditions-with stubbies, (no larger than 16cm), and a standard rack of gear to 2 in. Approach Notes: Approach like you are headed to Hangover from G2, and 300 ft climbers right of Hangover, climb the Bombay Chimney 25m through a thin overhanging crack to a set of bolted anchors on climbers right. Continue 35m up p2 on easier WI 3+ terrain to a slung tree, or just rappel the business pitch. Edited April 7, 2011 by Craig Pope Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted April 1, 2011 Posted April 1, 2011 A great way to cap a great ice season. Nice work! Quote
wayne Posted April 1, 2011 Posted April 1, 2011 Nice Craig, great vid. Here is a picture of you and Marko doing the dirty work. Quote
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