Z-Man Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Trip: Sherpa Peak - North Ridge Date: 7/15/2007 Trip Report: In the words of Jim Nelson, "good but not great." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Did you climb the complete ridge? I've wondered if it would be better to intersect the ridge 2/3 of the way up at the major notch before the last steep bit to the summit. Early season, it looks like snow all the way up to that notch.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Man Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Started at the last trees on the ridge, maybe 7000', and seemed to be the obvious place to begin climbing. The steepest pitches were after the notch, but I thought the most fun stuff was simuling clean cracks down lower. You could also easily climb on 4th and low-fifth class ledges on the East side of the ridge almost the whole way to the notch if you really wanted to bypass the lower stuff, but I don't think I would want to do that. Forgot to mention: descending to Sherpa Pass via the South slopes is long and painful, but I don't know of a better alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Forgot to mention: descending to Sherpa Pass via the South slopes is long and painful, but I don't know of a better alternative. Maybe a dumb question, but...Did you descend west to Sherpa Col, or east to Sherpa/Argonaut Col? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 If it's early season, you can descend the couloir just climbers left of the summit. It's a long downclimb, but faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Man Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 I believe the most oft-done descent is to the East to the gap between Sherpa and Argonaut, which Beckey calls Sherpa Pass. It isn't fun. On a positive note you don't need crampons, boots, or ice axe if you head that way late season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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