snowspark6 Posted March 8, 2011 Posted March 8, 2011 Hey all, This is my first posting, thanks to everyone who has put work into making this helpful site rock for all to benefit from! Looking for any and all pertinent info regarding a Hood Attempt this month. I'm visiting Seaside Oregon and have my climbing kit with me, looking for route information, photos to get familiar and a partner if possible. This climb is within my ability range, but I'm not familiar with the area. Currently I'm solo and looking at Hood for a rad climb/ride and hope I can put it together with some research and your help over the next 2 weeks. Thanks for your replies! will Quote
Water Posted March 8, 2011 Posted March 8, 2011 what questions exactly do you have? weather and snow conditions are your main variable if you can find a time when they coincide best, that is great, depending on your schedule in seaside. It is about 3 hr drive more or less you stay on 26 from seaside all the way to timberline lodge, more or less (turn and go 6 miles off 26 up to timberline lodge). Your vehicle needs to have a snopark pass to park at timberline (can get at gas stations, outdoors stores) Many people stash their skis/board at various places along the southside way up, depending on their skill level and conditions, starting right above the top of the palmer lift, to the hogs back, etc. read trip reports here and elsewhere about the south-side route which is the 'standard' route if you're unaware of hogsback/palmer snowfield/zigzag canyon/crater rock Quote
snowspark6 Posted March 9, 2011 Author Posted March 9, 2011 Wow, a first reply already, awesome. Yes, I've gotten busy investigating the classic hogsback southside route as it seems to be the easiest for an out of towner to research and get comfortable with. What I'm trying to figure out is what to anticipate for the steeper crampon sections, how hard the ice will be, are there any deviations to the normal hogsback ridge up to the gates due to ridge shifting and what the snowpack has been like. I read somewhere that the right hand gully is going better at the gates. How long are these gullies and what angle are the pitches reaching this year? Is there anywhere to see a climber's topo from this season? I'd love to know if people have been on the route lately and I'll try to keep up with snow/weather for the next while to evaluate stability. I'd also like to know where there are glaciated/crevassed sections of travel and where people have descended safely in the past to lay some nice tracks. Is there any one thread or set of photos to see all the parts of the route, or mtn labeled so I can memorize the features? What constitutes the palmer snowfield and what is the zigzag canyon? I know that the palmer's lift leads up towards crater rock, then hogsback traverses right and leads to the gates, but I couldn't identify the gates very well yet in a photo. This adventure is still firmly in the planning and research stage. Thanks for any and all input folks! cheers Quote
Water Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 a graphic overview that may help to get some of the names i mention. graphic of hood's south side ignore the blue ski line. i mention zigzag canyon, and as you see on that image above, mississippi head, as the fall line from below crater rock heads that way and leads to trouble in white out. there are a few reports in the oregon forum that have detailed the snowpack. basically it got walloped in the last few weeks. it is settling a bit and more snow is on the way this week. the hogsback shifts over the years. the most straight forward way up lately has been going to the mazama chute/old chute..you would go west from the hogsback, either by traversing under cliffs it's top (turn before bergschrund) or descending across, above fumerole just north of crater rock, and going over steamy/melted muddy rock a bit and then going straight up the chute joining where you would if you had traversed over to it below the cliffs. if you want simple as possible, skip anything to do with the gates and go this way. picture of general route Green – Hogsback Teal – Bergshund Yellow – Left pearly gate Blue – Right pearly gate Red – Old chute / Mazama chute another image by going to google and typing 'south side mt hood' and 'south side route mt hood' etc and then clicking the 'images' button you should be able to get all the images you need. you dont need to worry about crevasses really up to crater rock, then, generally not, in my opinion, though that assumes you have researched and stay on route. Quote
snowspark6 Posted March 10, 2011 Author Posted March 10, 2011 Wow, those photos and labeled features really bring the route segments into focus. thank you. So, is the Hogsback a more direct and technical line over the Mazama? I figured that the Hogs would be the easiest/simplest since it receives the most traffic... Hmmm... Looks like the Old route is a little longer but more mellow? Is there an easy summit ridge to traverse over to the true summit from the top of Old chute? One aspect of the route I haven't seen yet is the final summit segment. How steep is it? Is it any easier or harder depending on which chute you pop out of? I'm starting to get a pretty good picture for what the ascent looks like. Seems like either route is very doable, it's a matter of stability right now. If the weather and snow stabilizes I'm psyched to make a push! I hope the avvy conditions will allow it... gulp... cheers ps. anyone want to come??? Quote
Teh Phuzzy Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 Headed up there to start out spring break. Looking at 19-21st; day depending on weather. I was thinking to hit up the N side, but I just want to get on top and not jump in the congo line. LMK if any of those dates work. I can go the next week end too if the first doesn't work; I have to fit surfing and bouldering in there somewhere. Where does that pink line come in from? Looks interesting. Thanks for the pix/beta Water Save me some time to study for finals Quote
snowspark6 Posted March 10, 2011 Author Posted March 10, 2011 Hey Phuzzy, Great to see that someone else is interested in makin a push if the weather allows. Sounds like you might be game to team up if things go right? I've only been looking at south routes so far, but I'm not stuck on anything, I just wanted to select a route with lots of easy beta as I figured I'd be going solo. Is it safe to post personal email addy here and not get spammed with crap? Maybe we can work out details without cluttering the board... if you want. Quote
Water Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 the pink line would be if you drop down off the west side of the hogsback about where you hit it when you're coming up, and go between two fumeroles...and up and over some sloppy mud/rock/snow.. (partially visible in the left side of the pic with the pink line). -- from there you just go up and join the mazama chute. If doing south-side I personally favor this, as oft the cliffs are liable to shed chunks of rime when temps get closer to the freezing point, I see less safety value in traversing below them. That said, I suppose a point could be made that ascending up to near their level on the hogsback is safer than being in the line of the mazama/old chute for the longer duration if you're cutting over from the base of the hogsback (going between the fumeroles--pink line basically). Maybe if a monster group was coming down and showering the old chute, I'd opt for traversing under so I'm not below that group when they're raining junk. if it is a good summit day, you'll likely see a path both ways. the end is no more steep i'd say than what you see in pics. maybe for 20 ft but there isn't any 'step' going the old chute way. additionally the summit ridge traverse is fine except for one spicy point that is narrow--people definitely slow down there/crawl if needed/etc. there shouldn't be any doubt, but if there is, you definitely want to be wearing a helmet Click on teh phuzzy's name and click to send a PM or write your email as such: myemail AT site DOT com or something to that end. Quote
TRoth Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 Hey, I'm interested in climbing Hood over spring break aswell. I will be in Sandy all week and could go up any time, I would be open to drive, I have a jeep and a pass. I have been up to the top of hogs back several times, but never topped out. there was gnarly inversions both times with popping ice. Quote
Maine-iac Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 Snowspark bring your gear to the summit. The ski off the top is WELL worth lugging it up there. You should be able to skin about 3/4 of the way up, then it gets a little too steep for skinning. My advice is to hit the summit just after sunrise so that you can ski the upper slope right as the sun gets on it. Then chill out on the hogsback for a while and let the sun melt up the next 4500 vertical feet into some nice corn. The only thing you need to watch for is that the upper slopes are not totally rimed up (also check your avy conditions). This photo is of me skiing right off the summit ridge. Photo- F. Sproat. Quote
snowspark6 Posted March 14, 2011 Author Posted March 14, 2011 Sweet shot bro, thanks for sharing! I have all my climbing stuff here, but not my snowboard or my touring setup. I was thinking about just renting gear. Sucks, cuz my ride is up in Vancouver, bc, but I'm willing to pay a little bit for this epic adventure. But can I reach the hogsback without skinning or snowshoeing? Think it will be bootpackable above the resort slopes? last question, where do people ski down to get the most pow turns away from the resort groomers. I'm new to the mtn so I wanna stay in pretty easy to navigate avvy terrain. I'm just stoked to link up a climb/descent if the weather gives us a break! What's the drop in like off the ridge? What aspect/angle is the slope? Cornices above, or is it safe from ice bombs? Thanks for ur posting, all these bits of info have helped a lot! cheers Quote
snowspark6 Posted March 17, 2011 Author Posted March 17, 2011 Where does everybody get the best weather forecast for Hood? What kind of forecast do I need to see tothink that my Hood ascent is safe? How is visibility usually on a day when the forecast is for a little snow? Looks like the wind is low and conditions might be decent in a couple days??? What do you folks think? Quote
pcg Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 (edited) What kind of forecast do I need to see to think that my Hood ascent is safe? That depends on your skill level and your mental aptitude for being on the side of a mountain in a winter storm. If you are new to winter mountaineering then I would wait until high pressure moves in and stabilizes. Then wait at least two days for the snow to stabilize and watch the NWAC report. Then don't go unless you feel confident about your ability to evaluate snow stability. If you are experienced and accustomed to winter mountaineering then you can pretty much go up almost to Crater Rock and be safe regardless of the weather as long as you are prepared to either navigate your way down with altimeter and compass in a white hurricane or dig in and hole up for days if you get into a string of storms. Beyond Crater Rock you face the potential for avalanche during and immediately after a storm, and also during warming trends. I don't see a high pressure window in any current forecast. Don't get me wrong, I've made many trips up to Crater Rock for skiing this time of year, in unstable weather like we have now, but it is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced. The weather can turn on you in an instant, and then turn back to bluebird 15 minutes later, or not. If you are new to this, my advice is to cool your heels and wait for high pressure, or plan a ski/boarding trip up to Crater Rock, but no further, and be prepared to navigate down in a whiteout. Here is how I think when I'm descending south side Mt. Hood in a whiteout. If high pressure moves in and stabilizes, go for it. Edited March 17, 2011 by pcg Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 Best link for current conditions http://www.nwac.us/weatherdata/timberlinebase/now/ Quote
dougd Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 Great advice above, especially pgc... If you are not very familiar with this mountain, be conservative when making a judgement on acceptable weather/avalanche conditions, and be honest in judging your ability to survive a winter storm up there. This little gem applies whether you go solo, or with others... It can be a killer. d Quote
Teh Phuzzy Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 Sunday/Monday is looking better for the weather; and the surf supreme. I am a little timid with all the avy danger I have been reading. It has been getting better, but I am not familiar with reading these reports for PNW. The Super Bowl slide is up above Meadows and the route comes from T-Line, but it sounds like the weak layer might be present on most of the south and east sides. That pink route that Water was talking about looks like it might avoid some of this danger. related thread I have been up on the Sisters and St. Helens on clear days when a storm comes in real quick and I am not interested in coming down Hood in those conditions, I have heard too many stories like the one PCG posted. The avy danger has been slowing coming down, should this continue? Is that deep layer going to consolidate with temps of 30 during the day? I would think that higher temps would be needed to get that deep of a layer to pack in. Quote
Water Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 (edited) can't offer any empirical input on the avy situation. personal opinion with the forecast right now, even if Sunday or Monday were to be bluebird, I'd probably still sit on my hands due to whats been coming all this week and prior. Now if it gets clear and stays clear and sunny for 2-4 days and nwac is showing decreased risk, well, I'd probably be out. Not that such a situation is just an auto-pass from avy danger. As far as the pink line you're referencing. That pink line is only what you'd do if you were going from the hogsback taking the old chute early as opposed to going UP higher on the hogsback and traversing over to the old chute. It is still a south-facing slope and still can have avy risk there. I can't find any photos at the moment but have seen some with slide that has a crown cutting through the pink line on the old chute slope. These three photos should help. edit: I only photograph, not sure who created the snow wand in the last picture. Edited March 17, 2011 by Water Quote
TRoth Posted April 4, 2011 Posted April 4, 2011 What great reports! I was hoping to go for a push this Saturday/ Sunday morning (A.M.),,,,,,,...... but it looks like were about to get a bunch of precip Quote
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