stevenkalinowsk Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 I don't think I mentioned it in my recent trip report, but the approach for the east ridge was easy. This was one of the reasons why we choose this route (we made the decision while looking at the approaches for the east and west ridges. We had crampons and an ice ax, and were happy to have them. The approach seems to be on a glacier. We roped up on the ascent, but not the descent - it looks like a pretty safe snow field. After following the snow slope to the ridge at its top, follow the faint climbers trail up left. Soon you will see the gendarme on the East Ridge where the route starts. Nelson and Pottersfield's book says to take a quick look down the gully on the other side so that you know which gully to ascend. We interpreted this as meaning that it would be easy to get confused and climb up the wrong gully. I doubt this could happen. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 quote: Originally posted by stevenkalinowsk: Soon you will see the gendarme on the East Ridge where the route starts. Nelson and Pottersfield's book ... Isn't a Potter's Field where they bury the homeless stiffs that can't afford a church funeral? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 quote: Originally posted by stevenkalinowsk: Nelson and Pottersfield's book says to take a quick look down the gully on the other side so that you know which gully to ascend. We interpreted this as meaning that it would be easy to get confused and climb up the wrong gully. I doubt this could happen. Good luck. Â agreed.. I think if you tried to keep traversing past the gully, you would run into 5th class terrain pretty quick. FWIW, we avoided the nasty-looking gully, and headed back up to the ridge just before it on more solid, blocky terrain. [This message has been edited by philfort (edited 08-20-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 21, 2001 Share Posted August 21, 2001 Lambone's beta: (not sure if you wanted this much detail, but here goes...) Great route, try and hit all the little towers! The approach is mellow (beware o' flies!), icy in the morning, no crevasse danger. Stash extra gear at the big Gendarme, and bury any salty stuff with big rocks! We did four single rope rappels (30m each). After the fourth rappel off two large red slings we then traversed, staying fairly high. We got a bit gripped so we roped up and were able to find ok to marginal gear here and there. Head directly across, and slightly up and you will run into sling belays about every 150ft. After about four ropelengths you will find yourself near the top of the first pitch of the ridge, downclimb it and you are home free! Thats how we did it, obviously not the only way. It may take a bit longer, but it keeps you out of the steep/dirty looking gully that Nelson mentions. Have fun! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-20-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 21, 2001 Author Share Posted August 21, 2001 I'm planning a trip to Forbidden this weekend and plan to do the East Ridge route. Anyone been out there lately or have info on the current approach conditions? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 21, 2001 Share Posted August 21, 2001 there was a TR on this very ridge on here this morning...look around the site a bit and you should find it. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000183.html here 'tis. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 08-20-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 23, 2001 Author Share Posted August 23, 2001 Thanks for the info. I'm sure it'll be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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