Dane Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/be-attentive-when-placing-ice-screws.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake_Gano Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 On an unrelated note, there was an excellent thread on gravsports about an anchor failure. In this case the leader had weighted a screw and the screw held, but as he was moving to set up a v-thread the screw blew, a second screw blew, and he ended up taking a factor 2 onto the anchor, blowing one of the two anchor screws. The followup and analysis was interesting: http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=7483#Post7483 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Great thread, thanks Jake for the link. Interesting in that we climbed that same route less than a week previous to the accident and before the temps bottomed out. We had wet, soft, hero ice. Some times this stuff just plain gets scary. Daniel pulling the crux. Looking down at Carlos just short of the first belay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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