rl23455 Posted August 8, 2010 Posted August 8, 2010 From the top of Jill's Thrill, a 60m rope takes one to a rap anchor that is not listed on Beacon Rock topo. And that rap takes one to the top of 1st pitch of JT(top of Toothe Fairie). So I'm trying to mark it on my BR topo. Any help? Also, I've been told at this same rap anchor in question, when facing the cliff, a thin crack just to the left(~3ft) of the rap anchor is a 10a that is not part of JT, and JT actually goes up on the right(~8ft). Yes/No? Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted August 8, 2010 Posted August 8, 2010 that thin crack is crazy horse. It is very short and turns into scrambling in a dirty groove quickly. I believe most consider it 5.9. Quote
rl23455 Posted August 8, 2010 Author Posted August 8, 2010 thanks. It's been a few years since I did it, so maybe it would be easier to me now. Quote
kevbone Posted August 9, 2010 Posted August 9, 2010 From the top of Jill's Thrill, a 60m rope takes one to a rap anchor that is not listed on Beacon Rock topo. And that rap takes one to the top of 1st pitch of JT(top of Toothe Fairie). So I'm trying to mark it on my BR topo. Any help? Also, I've been told at this same rap anchor in question, when facing the cliff, a thin crack just to the left(~3ft) of the rap anchor is a 10a that is not part of JT, and JT actually goes up on the right(~8ft). Yes/No? That "thin crack" is actually the second pitch of crazy horse. The way Jim puts it is its 5.9 on top rope and 10.a to lead. Jills Thrill is only two pitches. I do understand alot of folks stop at the anchor on top of toothe fairie but it goes in one long pitch from Snage ledge to Yosemite ledge (ledge with "thin crack" on it). The second pitch to JT is the 5.8 crack to the right of the anchor. Quote
denalidave Posted August 9, 2010 Posted August 9, 2010 You can also rap to snag ledge from the top of the first pitch of Jill's (at the base of the Crazy Horse finger crack - Yosemeti Ledge, not at the top of Tooth Fairy) in one long rap with a 70 meter rope. Be sure to be exactly on the middle of the rope as it BARELY makes it to snag ledge. In fact, you have to come off the end of the 70 meter rope, but you can reach the belay anchor slings on Snag Ledge so it is not at all scary or dangerous (as long as you know it beforehand). Quote
denalidave Posted August 9, 2010 Posted August 9, 2010 Or, you could just FREE SOLO up BLOWNOUT , then DOWNCLIMB (FREE SOLO) Jill's . That's how the hardmen roll at Bacon, so I hear, anyway. Quote
denalidave Posted August 9, 2010 Posted August 9, 2010 From the top of Jill's Thrill, a 60m rope takes one to a rap anchor that is not listed on Beacon Rock topo. And that rap takes one to the top of 1st pitch of JT(top of Toothe Fairie). So I'm trying to mark it on my BR topo. Any help? Also, I've been told at this same rap anchor in question, when facing the cliff, a thin crack just to the left(~3ft) of the rap anchor is a 10a that is not part of JT, and JT actually goes up on the right(~8ft). Yes/No? That "thin crack" is actually the second pitch of crazy horse. The way Jim puts it is its 5.9 on top rope and 10.a to lead. I agree with Jim on that one... Quote
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