[TR] Mt. Buckner - North Face 7/26/2010

[jrace2]

Trip: Mt. Buckner - North Face

 

Date: 7/26/2010

 

Trip Report:

If any are interested in current conditions on the north side of Mt. Buckner I posted a trip report here: Mt. Buckner North Face - Trip Report - July 25-27, 2010 http://mountainschool.blogspot.com/2010/07/mt-buckner-north-face-trip-report-july.html

 

This was a guided trip with 2 customers and 1 guide. The route was in really good shape for late July.

 

Gear Notes:

Pickets are all that are needed right now. It is nice to have a very small (5-6 pieces) rock rack if you are roping up. You could get away with no rock gear, but there are placements if you are so inclined.

 

Approach Notes:

We approached via Boston Basin, crossed over Boston-Sahale Col, traversed onto upper Boston Glacier, and then exited via Horseshoe Basin, and Sahale Arm.

[pms]

I love forbidden, but good choice taking advantage of the conditions on buckner. also the ptarmigan n face rt. is great.

[jrace2]

It was hard to pass up. Another friend guided an 80 year old on the North Ridge of Forbidden 2 days before and mentioned that he left things pretty set up on the snow pitches.

[JoshK]

Were you the group of three that traversed lowed through Horseshoe Basin and camped below that exit gully to Sahale Arm? If so, I was one of the two guys that traversed higher across the Basin and went up the gully while you guys were setting up camp. /wave

[jrace2]

That was us. You guys looked to be making good progress. What did you guys do that day?

[goatboy]

pms - is the Ptarmigan NF route the "North Face Couloir" on Buckner?

[JoshK]

That was us. You guys looked to be making good progress. What did you guys do that day?

 

We had done Booker earlier that day, but took our time getting packed up from the bivy and heading back to Sahale Arm since the heat had its way with me for a bit. It worked out well, though, since Sahale Arm is a mighty sweet place to be at sunset.

[pms]

it looks like the climb described in this TR is the Ptarmigan route. The Couloir routh seems to hold snow longer and perhaps stays in condition later into the year. Always fun to remember the ptarmigans however. On July 25th they climbed Spider, Formidable, and Magic. On the 26th Johannesburg with a night out, returning to camp at Cascade Pass on the 27th. Sahale, Boston, and Buckner (N Face) on the 28th. Followed by a little hike down Stehekin River, up Agnes Creek, over Cloudy Pass, and down the Suiattle to their car.