shitzngiggles Posted July 30, 2010 Posted July 30, 2010 (edited) Trip: Vesper Peak - North Face, 1970 route Date: 7/29/2010 Trip Report: On Wednesday the 28th my climbing partner Chris and I made the approach through Headlee Pass and camped above the small lake on the east side of Vesper. [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/002.jpg[/img] We woke on the 29th and made our way quickly up to and over the snow saddle. The upper snow was steep and getting thin and rotten so we down climbed the rock rib in the center for several hundred feet until the slope lessened and the snow conditions improved. [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/011.jpg[/img] Unfamiliarity with the route led us further down the glacier than we expected and had to re-ascend several hundred feet to the base of the apron. The whole time my doubts growing as I thought about the two gents we chatted with on the hike in that were heading out after an unsuccessful bid for the NF. The size of the moat had been to their disliking. This along with a small history of moat issues had me wary. As it turned out the moat was not too bad, (crossed worse) undercut but made the step over quickly and got underway. [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/014.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/019.jpg[/img] What can I say... watch out for the crappy Hematite ridden rock...all in all the apron was cool but sketchy. We started further down slope than I think is the standard. A subtle rib just up slope from the water runnel took us up three short pitches to the right and then two longer pitches back left to the bench below the upper slab. For the most part it was an exercise in route finding and bad pro placements, you know, fun. We quaffed and noshed at the bench, unscrambled our ropes and wandered up left to the start of the slab. [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/022.jpg[/img] Chris led out from a subtle weakness atop a detached boulder for a short pitch. It took us two short and two long pitches to reach the top. It was mostly an exercise in self doubt. The route is really easy if you are comfortable leading 5.6 with no or little pro. Which it turns out we were and it was ridiculously fun. [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/031.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/034.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/038.jpg[/img] Gear Notes: bring a ton use a little... small cams would have been nice but not needed Approach Notes: Take the minor rib from the SW side of the small lake to reach the "snow saddle". Edited July 31, 2010 by shitzngiggles Quote
brandonmc Posted July 30, 2010 Posted July 30, 2010 Ed and I bailed due to a few diffrent factors. Glad to see that you guys made it and made it back safely. Brandon Quote
shitzngiggles Posted July 31, 2010 Author Posted July 31, 2010 Here are some pics... sorry about the layout, next time perhaps I'll get it right? Thanks Brandon. Quote
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