shitzngiggles

Here are some pics... sorry about the layout, next time perhaps I'll get it right? Thanks Brandon.

Trip: Vesper Peak - North Face, 1970 route Date: 7/29/2010 Trip Report: On Wednesday the 28th my climbing partner Chris and I made the approach through Headlee Pass and camped above the small lake on the east side of Vesper. [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/002.jpg[/img] We woke on the 29th and made our way quickly up to and over the snow saddle. The upper snow was steep and getting thin and rotten so we down climbed the rock rib in the center for several hundred feet until the slope lessened and the snow conditions improved. [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/011.jpg[/img] Unfamiliarity with the route led us further down the glacier than we expected and had to re-ascend several hundred feet to the base of the apron. The whole time my doubts growing as I thought about the two gents we chatted with on the hike in that were heading out after an unsuccessful bid for the NF. The size of the moat had been to their disliking. This along with a small history of moat issues had me wary. As it turned out the moat was not too bad, (crossed worse) undercut but made the step over quickly and got underway. [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/014.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/019.jpg[/img] What can I say... watch out for the crappy Hematite ridden rock...all in all the apron was cool but sketchy. We started further down slope than I think is the standard. A subtle rib just up slope from the water runnel took us up three short pitches to the right and then two longer pitches back left to the bench below the upper slab. For the most part it was an exercise in route finding and bad pro placements, you know, fun. We quaffed and noshed at the bench, unscrambled our ropes and wandered up left to the start of the slab. [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/022.jpg[/img] Chris led out from a subtle weakness atop a detached boulder for a short pitch. It took us two short and two long pitches to reach the top. It was mostly an exercise in self doubt. The route is really easy if you are comfortable leading 5.6 with no or little pro. Which it turns out we were and it was ridiculously fun. [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/031.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/034.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z89/stinkchz/038.jpg[/img] Gear Notes: bring a ton use a little... small cams would have been nice but not needed Approach Notes: Take the minor rib from the SW side of the small lake to reach the "snow saddle".

Looking to be abused by strong alpine climber , I have lots of experience on moderates but have a hard time breaking barriers with my less sadistic partners. I have route ideas but would love to hear yours. PM me if interested

sent you a PM

Dang, All that way and you didn't bother with the North Face of Concord?? Thanks for the TR

me too! sent you a pm matt

Thinking of going there this next week as well... would love to know if the rock is dry?? cloudy, cold, windy, snow on ground all ok... wet rock not so good...