[TR] N. Umpqua River - Dilley's Delight on Old Man

[shapp]

Trip: N. Umpqua River - Dilley's Delight on Old Man

 

Date: 7/18/2010

 

Trip Report:

Proof that the Creator is infatuated with the male form, a finer example there never was than the Old Man pinnacle.

 

I have thought about climbing the Old Man Rock ever since I first saw it as a kid fishing along the N. Umpqua River. Never got around to it until Sunday 7/18/10. Went down there for a bachelor party to do some rafting and kayaking on the N. Umpqua. Had a booze cruz on Segments 1 and 2 on Saturday, had fun surfing the new kayak, partied it up at Horseshoe Bend on Saturday night with whiskey, gin, rum, beers, etc., fat Rib eyes, passed out in the woods. Best quote from Saturday night (as best as I can recall) “You guys should put some Whiskey on your salad, its great! [repeated several times in a row]”. Got up the next morning and grubbed up and headed out for the climb, not really hung over at all luckily.

 

I found the route info in Greg Orton’s Umpqua area climbing guide and also from a route description on Summit Post from rpc for Dilley’s Delight (2 pitch 5.9). The only other route to the summit is a 4 pitch 5.11+ bolted route, which looks striking! I hope to clear up some mistaken info from both the summit post and Orton’s guide book description. First, the photo topo on the version of Orton’s book I have is not correct, here is a corrected version (pic poached from Ortons CC-sprayers gallery):

 

 

Secondly the route description in both accounts does not highlight the loose nature of Pitch 1 (and this is coming from someone who grew up climbing Oregon choss). Orton suggests belaying from the tree at the notch between Old Man and Old Woman. That might have been good 5 or 6 years ago, but now the tree/branches have grown too large, which would significantly interfere with a belay. Best to scramble above the tree and sling the big boulder/horn with a large cordelette, or the end of the climbing rope as we did.

 

Pitch 1 scrambles up a 30 foot right trending low-angle vegetated ramp to a wide-ish crack. You could either climb the crack or traverse farther right to a very very dirty and what looked to be very minimally protected gully/groove system (Orton’s guide describes climbing the crack, but the topo shows going into the groove). We chose the crack. The first 15 feet of the crack is fairly solid and not too dirty, about 5.6. A #5 camalot (new size) starts things out with another 1.5 to 2 inch cam higher up. Then the crack turns into more of a large flake that is basically large stacked blocks. They are all pretty creaky. You can get hand size gear in there, but I wouldn’t want to fall on the second half of Pitch 1. Luckily it is only about 5.4 or 5.5. Be very careful on what you step and pull on and tread lightly! Head straight up to the large notch for the belay. Real nice crack in the notch that takes yellow TCU up to about Green or Red camalots.

 

Pitch 2 is the money pitch, well protected with natural gear and interesting climbing. The few bolts described on Summit Post are gone (and not needed), except for the final bolt at the traverse. From the belay step right and up on a large block to the pretty clean hand crack (extremely clean compared to P1). Orton’s guide calls this a finger/hand crack. It is locking hand jams, with 1 final finger lock, then a longish reach to a face hold jug and up to easier terrain. This first 15 feet is solid and steep 5.8 crack climbing and very well protected. Red/gold camalots are great here. After the first crack, easy low fifth class ledges for another 20 feet up to the second hand crack (red and gold work great). Crank this crack, which is again a nice steep and solid 5.8 and totally enjoyable for another 15 feet, up to a final good jam, reach over and clip the bolt on the face to the right and contemplate (as you get pumped) how you will manage the 6 foot traverse to a low angle gully/chimney without any good foot holds or hand holds to speak of with good lichen coverage. I thought about employing the “flying camel” move developed by old Darrington hard men, but thought better and grabbed the draw and swung over easily (I am going to guess the French free option is a pretty common choice here). Climb the final gully/chimney for another 20 feet to the top (low fifth), placed 1 #4.5 older size camalot here. Chains up on top and to the left of the chimney exit.

 

1 double rope and free hanging rap back down to the notch where you started from. The wind was up pretty good blowing east, blowing our ropes over to the steep north east side of the crag. There are a fair number of horns on that face, and our rope had a few snagles, might want to watch/be aware of this.

 

 

Don’t let the Pitch 1 deter you. I thought Pitch 2 was well worth the outing if you like interesting crack climbing.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Gear: double ropes, full single set of cams from blue TCU to #5 camalot, couple extra in the green, red and gold camalot size. 10 runners are ample

 

Approach Notes:

The current approach is on the Umpqua Trail from the West as Soda Springs Dam access is closed while they build a fish ladder. Park at Marsters Bridge and hike the N. Umpqua Trail for about 2.75 miles to Eagle Creek, just east of the river gage station/cable crossing. Hike up the west side of Eagle Creek for about 100 feet and pick up the very well worn climbers trail. Total hike is about 2.9 miles on mostly flat trail until the final short climb up to the crag, took about 1 hour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 1, 2010 by shapp

[sweatinoutliquor]

Awesome! Thanks for the description, looks like something to add to the list! Got a kick out our your bachlor party story, but what were you guys doing w/ salad (?) at a bachelor party...? Anyway, thanks again.

[g orton]

Shapp,

Great trip report. I'll make the corrections to the topo for pitch-1 as suggested in the next update. The original 2000 guide topo had pitch-1 drawn similar to what you have in red.

 

The traverse at the bolt from the hand crack into the gully is not as bad as it looks. You're right it's freaky but the rock is coarse enough that your right hand and feet are more positive than you think they are when you're reaching accross to make that move. By the way Tyler Adams replaced that bolt recently, so it is solid.

 

The rappel off into the notch, as you noted, is always windy as the notch forms a wind tunnel effect.

 

Enjoyed your discriptions!

[fgw]

nice tr. in 2004, this was the scariest part of the day

...heard they replaced the bridge since.

[Teh Phuzzy]

Dig it. I think I have to hit that on the way back from Thielsen. And then the hot springs of course