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Trip: Ingalls Peak - East Ridge

 

Date: 7/16/2010

 

Trip Report:

My friend Dave and I climbed the east ridge of Ingalls North on Friday. From Ingalls Pass there was consolidated snow but it's melting out fast and parts of the trail are visible. Dave brough his young sone, Luke who waited it out on a rock island below the peaks, taking pictures and making friends with the goats. At one point, I looked down and he seemed surround by them.

 

Dave and I headed up to the notch and this time I managed to avoid the slimy green 5.14d chimney and found the 4th class ledge system off to the left - much nicer. We decided to run up East Peak real quick-like since Dave hadn't done that route. It was 2 long pitches of easy and solid 5th with a short and loose ridge to finish it off.

 

Back at the notch, we gathered our packs and headed up the east ridge. The whole route was solid with plenty of pro. One spot of downclimbing was a bit suck with a heavy pack (I think Dave was collecting rocks) but the foot holds were there. We were told the crux on the last pitch would take a #4, which we brought. The pitch was fun as it went straight up the ridge and took a move to the right and over to get to easier ground. I'm thinking that was the crux but it was very well protected without the #4.

 

From the summit we called Luke on the radio and had him meet us at the base of the south ridge so he could do some climbing. Dave followed up a few moves behind him to help him out and he did great - hiking boots and all. The top was much windier and colder at that point so we didn't linger too long.

 

A quick stop to pump water and we headed back to the trailhead. I was going to go snag Dragontail on Saturday but my stomach had been giving me fits so I car camped at the TH another night before heading back to Spokane. Dave and Luke headed down to grab Mt. Adams with some friends.

 

The approach is melting out fast

[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_001.JPG[/img]

 

Heading up to the notch

[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_003.JPG[/img]

 

Dave on East Peak

[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_006.JPG[/img]

 

East ridge route

[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_009.JPG[/img]

 

Dave on the east ridge.

[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_010.JPG[/img]'

 

East Peak viewed from North Peak

[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_011.JPG[/img]

 

Luke and Dave on North Peak - south face

[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_014.JPG[/img]

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Don't need no stinkin #4

 

Approach Notes:

Mostly snow.

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