Mt Shuksan Southeast Ridge Route Beta

[Mr_Christian]

Hey Cascade Climbers,

We are going to head up Mt Shuksan this weekend on the Sulphide Glacier. We want to do the Southeast Ridge on the summit pyramid, but we can't find a good route description for it. Does anyone know where we can find one (online, books, etc.)? Or, does anyone have some good beta about that route on the summit pyramid?

 

Thanks ahead of time!

[summitchaserCJB]

An alternate route to the summit and a good choice if the main gully is busy, is the southeast ridge of the summit pyramid which requires a bit more mid-fifth class climbing. There is some loose rock on both routes so you must choose your holds carefully!

All I could find.

[BirdDog]

Did the route last year. Mostly 4th, easy 5th class climbing. Bring lot's of long slings, and some #6 to #10 stoppers. When you get to the base of the summit pyramid, head towards the prominant notch in the lower rib; then just stay on the rib. Rock is pretty solid. Great route!

 

Here's a link to our TR

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=891998

[Mr_Christian]

Thanks summitchaserCJB, that is about all I could find as well. The route must be pretty straightforward since there is not much information out there.

[Mr_Christian]

Nice, thanks BirdDog! Sounds like a great route up. I did the central gully to the summit a few years ago and I wasn't that wild about it.

[jimmythegoon]

Speaking of Shuksan, does anyone know the current conditions of the North Face?

[Skeezix]

I always prefer the rock scrambling of the SE ridge to that funky S face. Low class 5, minimal rack. I don't remember loose rock.

[Mr_Christian]

A couple quick questions for you. Did you simo climb most of the route? Or were you setting anchors at the end of every pitch and belaying each other up? And if you did belay each other, how many pitches of climbing did it end up being?

 

Thanks!

[BirdDog]

We belayed most pitches,just because my partner felt more comfortable with that; but you could easily simul climb it. Prolly take about an hour to simul it. We used twin 30m ropes, maybe 6 - 8 pitches if I remember. There may be snow on the ridge this year though, don't know for sure. Have fun.

[xhen]

I've been eyeing the SE Ridge, as it looks a lot more fun than a crammed gully. Thanks for all the beta!