[TR] Snow Creek Wall - HYPERSPACE 7/6/2010

[jpark42]

Trip: Snow Creek Wall - HYPERSPACE

 

Date: 7/6/2010

 

Trip Report:

(When reading this trip report it helps to imagine a monster truck rally announcers voice. That is all)

 

HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE....You've gone to ORBIT and you've experienced the gripping terror of going to OUTER SPACE but have you experienced the Astroman of Washington HYPERSPACE!!!!

(Hyperspace is in the shadowed corner)

 

PITCH 1: Starts Remorsefully and sees you shooting into Outer Space.

PITCH 2: Two variations present themselves. You can either experience the EXTREME pinky and ring finger locks of Psychopath(11a) or enjoy the bolt protected/hidden crack out left(8+). Either way prepare to go beyond Outer Space to HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE!!!!

(Psychopath variation 11a)

PITCH 3: Prepare for your trip to HYPERSPACE by climbing cracks to the left of two roofs (5.9). Belay on top of large detached block (It's actually the second roof you climb around....scary isn't it)

PITCH 4: Climb the layback/broken flakes (10b) until able climb around a corner to a hanging slab where two options present themselves. Option 1: Juggy and slightly overhanging 11b/c (Think sport climbing except you are placing gear. A lot of fun if you can handle the EXTREMENESS of it) Option 2: Go across hanging slab to layback (10c) and awkward/vegetated climbing. Either option takes good gear.

PITCH 5: YOUR FINAL CHOICE!!!! Either continue shooting into HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE HYPERSPACE or go right towards the bolt (Iconoclast 10c)

If shooting into Hyperspace is your choice continue laybacking to the EXTREME knob step over(height dependent) allows you to step left around a arete. Climb around the last guardian THE TREE OF DEATH and belay to the left of a large chimney system.

(The start of pitch 5 layback. Notice how extreme I look. Notice the guardian to the upper left. You can almost sense hyperspace COMING!!!)

PITCH 6: HYPERSPACE BEGINS!!!! Two crack systems present themselves. Eventually you want to end up in the right crack system as the left one ends up in a pricker bush...uggg. Chimney moves bring you to the

CHAMBER (can you feel the pressure? I know could). Awkward offwidth moves (Book says 10d but the book is full of shit) brings you to face holds in the corner which allow you to reach really really far around the right corner to a hidden finger crack and layback ( You may need some aid for this section or in my case a lot of aid). A couple of wild stemming moves allow you to gain access to a layback corner(10a). After 20ft take a hidden foot leg and build a sketchy belay at a hollow detached flake( a couple of nuts and .5 C4) or continue along footleg until able to access better gear but more awkward belay to the left(Read: hanging and uncomfortable).

(On top of the pressure chamber)

PITCH 7: Climb cracks at the end of the foot ledge until able to pull a short roof (one 10a move) and easier climbing to the top.

PITCH 8: To finish your hyperspace experience you must do a funky dance like this guy.

to this song

 

(DISCLAIMER: All descriptions in this trip report are subjective and up to the authors' interpretation of the events. Also, the author of this trip report makes no claims to whether or not the climbing beta was obtained in "one" trip. Don't believe me....Here's a picture of the author:

DOES this look like some one that knows what they are doing?

 

Gear Notes:

Double sets of C3's and C4 up to #3. Blake Herrington also has a great route description here: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/washington/leavenworth/icicle_creek/106279399

 

I disagree with him on a few points but for the most part this is right on.

 

Approach Notes:

Approach as for Snow Creek Wall

[Rafael_H]

Awesome, J!

I've been really wanting to go up that one recently and keep being sidetracked. Thanks for the beta

Who's dancing, the usual suspect?

[mountainsloth]

nice park

[jpark42]

Yes, it is the usual suspect.

 

PS: We lost some gear up there. If any knows some one that did the route the week before we did ask them if they found any gear up there.

[wayne]

Beware, the hanging belay after Pressure Chamber is loose!!!!

Serious.

Edited August 8, 2010 by wayne1112