Lovers Leap: non trade route recomendations

[powderhound]

Looking for some recomendations for routes that wont be so crowded. Maybe a little run out, but still fun. Any other beta wouold be appreciated. Do I need to bring two ropes? Thanks for lurking and a double thanks if you reply.

[jshamster]

you'll pretty much never find a line up for Fantasia or Scimitar. Both classic run out lines on the east wall. Psychedelic Tree is another good one, but rumors of loose rock keep folks off. it's really not that bad, and the roofs at the top are super fun.

I'd guess around 80% of the routes down there are pretty uncrowded. East wall & the two classics on main wall (corrugation & traveler) get all of the traffic.

Most times i've been down there, we climbed at the leap on weekdays & went to phantom spires or sugarloaf for the weekend. tons more awesome sierra granite with no crowds at all.

 

if yer climbin' to the top, which a lot of routes do, then two ropes are not necessary. walk off is easy. some of the single pitch climbs require at least a 70, and occasionally two ropes. Labour of love comes to mind, right next to the line.

 

phantom spires still has free camping, as do some of the other FS roads around there. unfortunately the days of camping in the campground for free are gone.

 

one of my absolute favorites places to climb.

 

cheers

jimbo

[Moof]

East Crack is decent and sees little traffic, though it shares the last pitch with a couple of the most popular...

 

Deception Direct while listed at 5.9R, only has a move or two of 5.9, and with a little gardening you can get some slammer brass placements so it isn't even that R.

 

The newer lines on Hogsback like Better with Bacon see almost no traffic. Check out Honkey Toast for excellent 5.10+ slabbery. Perhaps you could get the second ascent of the second pitch?

[powderhound]

do you have a topo for that area? I am assuming that you have the first? I like to be second...just not if a girl is involved. HA

[Moof]

Sorry, no topo. I don't have the FA, a good friend of mine does. I got to TR the first ~5 bolts worth before it was done. The FA is by Tad, aka the Man of Steele. If you know Petch out there (local, used to be the best bartender at the lodge, still guides) he could hook you up with beta. He also has beta on other ham related routes.

 

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=206617

[sklag]

I'm gonna have to 2nd the tip on the hogsback... it's a nice run out, but not too run out, slab fest. It's awesome.