keenwesh Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 went and checked it out this weekend, the new guidebook showed a bunch of new 3 star 5.11 routes, figured it'd be worth checking out. we did the "5.11b" route on the far right side of the wall. the rock was gritty and the route itself was 5.10-. cool spot but I think misreported. rock might clean up with more traffic, until then not a 3 star crag. anyone know about this crag? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 we were wondering if that was the case... bummer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 I'm surprised Jibby could climb at all after walking that far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turn_one Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 went and checked it out this weekend, the new guidebook showed a bunch of new 3 star 5.11 routes, figured it'd be worth checking out. we did the "5.11b" route on the far right side of the wall. the rock was gritty and the route itself was 5.10-. cool spot but I think misreported. rock might clean up with more traffic, until then not a 3 star crag. anyone know about this crag? Was up there a month or so ago and had the exact same experience, although I didn't find the far right route a .10-. I unexpectedly knocked a couple of rocks off on my belayer, carefully went around some others, thought the place was in desparate need of some cleaning...odd options for rap anchors too if I remember. Made me not want to try the .10b gear route to the left desribed as 'loose flakes and hollow sounding gear placements'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted May 24, 2010 Author Share Posted May 24, 2010 yeah! at the top there were two big metolious bolts with hangers big enough to rap on but they were over 3 feet apart. weird shit! a couple rocks got knocked off too. the far right line with 15 bolts? it was mostly 5.9 with maybe a couple harder moves to pull the lip of the roof onto a dirty lichened face. If I can onsight it it's not 11b... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted May 24, 2010 Author Share Posted May 24, 2010 if the rock was cleaned more it could be a nice crag. long hike but no crowds. cool orange lichen on the face kinda reminded me of the needles of socal, except that the rock was grainy and needed to be brushed heavily. next time someone goes up there bring a couple heavy brushes and see if the rock can't be cleaned up a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jibby Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 I agree, i gave the far right line 5.9 personally due to abundance of no hands rests and good feet. If the crag was roadside it would definitely be a 3 star crag. Rock style is similar to city of rocks but not worth the brutal bushwack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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