May Climbing Suggestions

[bpesnell]

Any suggestions for a North Cascade climb in May? I am new to the sport and completed my first climb and glacier course on Shuksan last year. I am looking into another guided climb/instruction in May. I have a Rainier trip booked for July and wanted some additional experience. Guide suggestions have been Eldorado, Forbidden, and Baker. Any feedback would be appreciated...specifically conditions to expect in May and what (if any) peaks to avoid in early season.

[Dan_Miller]

If the low snow conditions in the North Cascades continue as they presently are the suggestions of Eldorado and the Easton Glacier route on Mt. Baker might well fit your current skill set.

However, there are some many good choices. You could PM me for more ideas. Given a little more info on what your inclinations are, any of our suggestions could be more fine tuned.

[genepires]

sounds like you want a climb in may for prep for rainier. If so, then Baker would be the best choice. You will need a glaciated peak for the instruction and none locally is better than the south side of baker. Eldo and forbidden while being fine routes, would not be good training for rainier.

 

Usually May would require lots of snowshoe time for baker, but this year you may need crampons. Rainier should be good for July due to the altitude of rainier.

 

If your desires for May are other than prep, then you need to describe your goals like Dan states above.

Edited February 7, 2010 by genepires

[bpesnell]

Yes, prep for Rainier and a review of skills learned in my glacier course were the main objective. After reading a bit about the choices mentioned, I definitely think Baker is the right one. Eldorado and Fobidden look like long approach hikes followed by shorter glacier travel and more of a rock climb to the summit. I am told Adams may be difficult to reach in early season.

 

Thank you for the feedback.

[gyro]

As far as Adams goes, currently it is about a full day snowshoe/ski approach to cold springs. In May, it might be much less. Last year in May I think I remember having about a 4-5 hour approach to cold springs.

[Le Piston]

While Forbidden does require some exposed mid 5th class rock climbing, Eldorado by the standard route is a glacier/snow climb. It is well worth the long slog to get there...the views are awesome! The summit ridge has a short section of exposed ridge, but shouldn't be too intimidating. Usually June is better for access, but in this low snow year May might work. You might also consider Whitehorse or Colchuck Peaks. Good Luck!

[KaskadskyjKozak]

While Forbidden does require some exposed mid 5th class rock climbing, Eldorado by the standard route is a glacier/snow climb. It is well worth the long slog to get there...the views are awesome! The summit ridge has a short section of exposed ridge, but shouldn't be too intimidating. Usually June is better for access, but in this low snow year May might work. You might also consider Whitehorse or Colchuck Peaks. Good Luck!

 

I ran up Eldorado first week of June last year and it was fine. I'd suspect a late May trip would be totally a go this year (as long was we don't have crazy record snowfall in the next 6-8 weeks)