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Mt. Shasta


Jonn-E

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Since no one has posted anything in this area I guess I will. I just summited Mt. Shasta yesterday. Conditions are great this time of year. Weather is nice, but snow still extends to Horse Camp. Took Avalanche Gulch route, because fun ridge routes are done for season. Easy, but spiced it up by taking class III gully through Red Banks (right side). Puget Sounders beware, I didn't acclimate properly and paid for it at 14,000ft.

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A few friends and I are heading down there to climb June 21-24th. We are going to attempt the highly traveled Avalanche Gulch Route as well, with no added difficulty. Any info would be very helpful! (we are climbing with someone from that area that has climbed it already)

Scott Harder

scott@nwog.org

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Scott Harder

scott@nwog.org

www.nwog.org

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I would recommend the Clear Creek route. It's as easy/easier than avalanche gulch (though maybe a tad longer) and you will see about 90% fewer people. Check it out.

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Originally posted by scot'teryx:

A few friends and I are heading down there to climb June 21-24th. We are going to attempt the highly traveled Avalanche Gulch Route as well, with no added difficulty. Any info would be very helpful! (we are climbing with someone from that area that has climbed it already)

Scott Harder

scott@nwog.org


 

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There weren't that many people when we climbed, however we heard that 2 days before (Memorial Day Weekend) one guy counted 75 tents at Lake Helen.....we counted only 3. Anyways, if you need to acclimmate, you can stay at Horse Camp ($5), which is nice, has a solar toilet. Other things of note: there is a $15 summit fee (don't get me started), and the snowpack is 5 weeks ahead of schedule. Definitely alpine start or pay the consequences. We took off from Horse Camp at 1:30am, which worked out nicely. Took us 9 hours up, 3 down. (I was slow because I got weak w/ altitude). Clear Creek is in good condition too. Check out Jeff Smoot's "Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes" for other routes.....or just get it because it is a great book. Bring a camera and have fun!

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I claimbed Avalanche Gulch 2 years ago in July. It was not terribly difficult. Helen Lake was a nice place to camp and made for a shorter summit trip than from Horse Camp. The wind can be pretty fierce on Misery Hill. Climbing Mount Shasta by Steve Lewis is a good book if Avalanche Gulch is the route you prefer. Try going to http://www.shastahome.com/climbers-guide/mountshasta.htm and click on conditions at the top of the page for the latest climbing conditions. Have a good climb.

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