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skykilo

[TR] Chamonix-Aiguille du Midi, Face Sud - Voie Re

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Trip: Chamonix-Aiguille du Midi, Face Sud - Voie Rebuffat

 

Date: 10/1/2009

 

Trip Report:

The south face is the beautiful, obvious face.

01admsm.jpg

 

It's a choose-your-own-adventure TR!

 

1. It looks like a beautiful morning in Chamonix after the alarm rings at 7 am for the "alpine start." Do you:

A. Make some coffee,

B. Enjoy the view from the window,

C. Eat yummy crêpes salées with sausage and eggs,

D. Walk two blocks to the telepherique for the première benne, or

E. All of the above?

 

Hint! Here is the view from the window:

04aptsm.jpg

... but from another day, today it's nicer than that. Il fait tellement beau.

 

Cecile got a little bit spanked on the first pitch, the 5b/c start from the right, with lots of traversing and some slab moves. There's a party ahead of us, a party behind us, and apparently 20 rabid teenagers are also rappeling to our location from the top instead of making the short glacier walk and climbing the first pitch.

 

2. What do you do?

A. Bail, this is fucked.

B. Chill, wait and see.

 

The famed S crack with some mad double-rope steeze:

90vrsm.jpg

 

91vrsm.jpg

 

92vrsm.jpg

 

I quit, this test is too easy. The only hard part is getting to class.

 

The superb steep slab finish:

99vrsm.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

BUY THE PLANE TICKET!!!

 

Approach Notes:

BUY THE TRAM TICKET!!!

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