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Ridge route on Dragontail from colchuck glacier


RobertSmith

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Hello,

 

I was wondering has anyone gone up the colchuck glacier to the col between colchuck and dragontail and climbed the mellow ridge route on dragontail?

 

-The brown becky does not describe it very well. Does anyone have any info?

-what are the technical diffaculties, how long does it take?

 

-thank you

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The crux at this point in the season will be the ugly, gray glacial ice encountered to just GET to Colchuck Col. This route would be better to do in the Spring or early Summer when the Colchuck Glacier is in good condition.

 

The route itself, from the Col, appears to be straightforward moderately steep snow and lots of traversing.

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From the col, facing DT, traverse up and right.

The snow field will either be gone or be very thin.

In dry conditions it is a gulley with loose rock here and there.

From the top of the gulley downclimb the opposite side and traverse the base of the cliff toward DT.

And alternate and more fun way is to exit the snow gulley before you get to the very top and traverse left to avoid topping out on the horn. Continue along the ridge until able to exit right.

Airy traverse and pretty easy 3rd class for the most part.

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I attempted Dragontail and colchuck on Saturday(9/26). We got to the glacier and had to turn around since we didn't have ice climbing gear, or a rope to protect a really sketchy walk on the glacial ice. If you are planning on a simple walk up/scramble, I wouldn't advise the colchuck glacier at this time of year.

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I attempted Dragontail and colchuck on Saturday(9/26). We got to the glacier and had to turn around since we didn't have ice climbing gear, or a rope to protect a really sketchy walk on the glacial ice. If you are planning on a simple walk up/scramble, I wouldn't advise the colchuck glacier at this time of year.

 

What is that stretch like? 40 degree ice? How many rope lengths?

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I would guess it was 30 maybe 35 degree ice. The number of rope lengths will depend on where you start. We got as far up as we could, which was by the highest boulders on the glacier. From there, 2 rope lengths should get you to the less steep part.

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