[TR] Anthony Lakes - Various on Angel Peak and Lees Peak 9/5/2009

[Checat]

I don't think WageSlave even would mind the thread-jack considering he acknowledges in one of his posts that he didn't think highly of the guide and wouldn't mind seeing a more quality resource to pull from.

 

If your defending the guys that wrote the guide and bitter about the criticism of said guidebook, fair enough. But I think original Poster WS is just as intrigued at how the printed information into the area is as interesting as any more hoots and hollers over a congratulatory climb. Well for the record:

 

Hoot and Holler, WS I'll buy you the first beer for that summit and every other you've knocked off since you intially put that TR on the web,

 

now,

 

outside of lostcamkenny is anyway else that abject to finding out how people are finding out about the area? and of what printed information out there, what's actually been beneficial for people visiting the area?

 

BTW, do I need to make fun of people who live or who have lived on the west side of the Cascades to be called an a&*-h^%$ like you called shapp? I'm stuck there so it would only be putting myself down.

Edited September 15, 2009 by Checat

[Checat]

BTW, Sorry to truly hijack this from a stellar Trip Report on a stellar area.

 

No you're not... and neither is Shapp. If you were you'd have left it alone! This is at least shapp's 2nd time hijacking a TR about this place because of his distaste for that guide (he did it to mine, too - thanks jackass!) !

 

lostcamkenny, your webthread that was "hijacked" by shapp to the same region kinda doesn't pan out. You mention how the guide derailed your initial goal and attributed misinformation. I don't think shapp is doing a disservice commenting on the lackings of the printed Falcon Guide. Maybe you would have "bagged Lee's..." then and not now or since your intial trip out there.

 

Based on previous posts I'm actually surprised your "done with this thread" in terms of not acknowledging the problems of the printed guidebook. I know if I paid money for a guide that took me to the wrong place, I'd want its shortcomings known.

 

I sold these things daily to climbers for a couple years, customers wanting to only buy one guidebook to a variety of areas and felt that while limiting them to an Orton or Olson(limiting region, not quality *those guides kick ass because they focus their attention on THEIR region:-)) or even Horton's recent(ish) publishing that was more Trip based throughout the state; I was putting in their hands a more quality guidebook than something that simply broke down more county borders, but did neccesarily deliver a quality product.

 

If you caught Horton's slideshow when he was touring his book he was upfront of where he came from in climbing, what hes done in the state and how he presents his information from the trips he made over a particular period of time. The correspondence he developed with people of the regions he was covering was vital, as the case with other authors throughout the state. etc... He was professional and presented the guidebook under no pretenses. I don't imagine he had many information misrepresentations, but if he did, having met the guy I think he would have owned up to the mistake and acknowledged that. He presents a taste of climbing for the weekend warrior, and was meant to even turn climbers on to other guides that were more thorough in regard to their area.

 

The reason people get on these websites is they want to have information in regard to climbing- Yes, No? I would say learning that a guidebook SUCKS and money should not be wasted on it could be chalked up as one of the best things that can come out of checking into the Trip Report of a particular area, no?

 

 

[shapp]

NE Oregon Rocks! please respect the area by learning the history and proper peak names. I would support a guide by Vert and contribute all of my NE Oregon info, which he probably already knows anyway.

Edited September 29, 2009 by shapp

[shapp]

Good on you for getting out there, but please let other know the correct names of the peaks

Edited September 29, 2009 by shapp

[Billy]

Vert- don't do it. Leave 'em all at Ozone and Smittys. They'll stay busy there.

[cycling_mike]

holy fuck; thanks for reminding me why I rarely put TR's on cc.com you guys. Who knew that two little fifth class slabs could be the focal point of so much bullshit. This aint the fucking eiger. We went there because it was the only spot in the NW that wasn't getting rain that weekend, and I'm glad we did. Colin and I got to explore a part of the state neither of us had been to before and we climbed a couple things; good times.

 

No "hordes" no fucked-in-the-ass-via-guidbook or dangling dicks. I mean jesus fucking christ almighty what a lot of bullshit.

...fucking unbeliveable

[shapp]

Sorry about the dangly dicks and anal penetration comment, I do not mean to degrade your sexual proclivities. Origional edited for nice factor below:

 

Again some young Portlanders have driven a long way following the Falcon Guide book without the forethought of bringing an actual map of the area. The Ruef and Bolf guide book is totally inaccurate for the area. Lees peak is to the east and Lakes Lookout is to the west. You were on Lakes Lookout Peak in the dark, not Lees Peak. Angel Peak is back behind (southeast of Lees Peak, up in Angel Basin). Climbers have been visiting this area on a regular basis since the 1970s, and it has received at least 2 write-ups in Climbing Magazine, although not in recent times. Thousands of people ski Anthony Lakes each year and many descents are made of the Lees Peak coulior each year. Reuf and Bolf identified the Lees Peak slab as "free ride to heaven" in the Falcon guide. To the best of my knowledge, this name was totally fabricated by them. Dave Jensen climbed that route back in the early 1970s and suspects others climbed it before him. It is locally known by several names, Lees Peak slab, Couloir or Ramp. Good on you for getting out there. The old rusty stuff you found to the north (left) of Lees Peak Slab is probably left over from Dave Jensen, he put up a few lines out there in the 1970s too, which have fallen into obscurity. There are many larger granite crags in NE Oregon to explore though for a 5.5 hour drive from PDX.

Edited September 29, 2009 by shapp