LaughingSquirrel Posted August 28, 2009 Posted August 28, 2009 (edited) Trip: El dorado - North ridge Date: 8/22/2009 Trip Report: My buddy and I found a little beta from a site on the internet for this route and decided to do it. I consisted of 3 pitches of rock followed by a pitch of 65 degree ice to gain the summit. From high camp at the base of the east ridge route of el dorado traverse north and west around the northeast face to gain the north ridge. One can get on it at a col or higher up on the ridge. It seemed that lower might give a little more in terms of rock. Once on the ridge ascend. Staying left of the ridge is path of least resistance. Class 3-4 mostly. Stay closer to the crest made the route for 5th. I'd say the hardest part that we pitched was 5.5, while other sources wanted to call it 5.6-7ish. You be the judge. (The germans would call it class 2...not really...but if you've climbed with us you would understand). simul climbed the rest of the ridge to the base of the north wall of ice below the summit. This is the frosting on the cake. Placed three screws on it as a precaution. Descend the east ridge and enjoy looking at THE traverse across the valley. Overall the best way to describe this climb as just frickin fun. Peace out yo. Gear Notes: Small rack to 4, one of each (could go lighter), rack of stoppers, one or two ice tools, crampons, 4-5 ice screws, glacier travel gear, 1-2 pickets to top belay ice pitch. Approach Notes: El dorado wilderness trail. Park 19.3 miles past marblemount. Cross large logs over the creek to get to the trailhead (there is a sign there) Stay on well beaten path. once at the boulder field follow ciarns and stay to the right. gain the meadows (bivy sites) and follow trails to the ridge on the left. (note: resist the urge to get higher on the ridge.) once on the ridge descend into the next drainage. head up on right side of glacier through the alp slopes. Keep heading in that direction, cross flat part of glacier, enjoy the view and reach another bivy site at the base of the east ridge of el dorado. Edited August 28, 2009 by LaughingSquirrel Quote
LaughingSquirrel Posted August 28, 2009 Author Posted August 28, 2009 A few end runs on the glacier. Had to whip out the tools to get on the ridge, 5 foot step to descend, wasn't anything bad with two well placed tools. Quote
JoshK Posted August 30, 2009 Posted August 30, 2009 That is a nice little route which recieves little attention. A friend and I hit that in an extra half day we had while going up for Dorado Needle. Nice climb and pics! Quote
J McD Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 You forgot to mention that you broke your toe and I had to carry most of your pack down the mountain for you. Quote
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