mountainsloth Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 Just wanted to give a shout out to this climb, 6 pitches 5.10a. If you like Silent Running and Total soul, go back for Revolver. the book says to traverse from the 2nd bolt after the first set of anchors of silent running, but i found the direct start just as easy although a little dirty. I found 3 gear placements and stretched the rope till its end to reach the anchors. *Bring a 3/8 and maybe a 1/2 wrench! many of the new bolts are loose!* all in all, a great route and deserves the same props as the neighboring climbs. The last pitch is the only 5.10 pitch and has two tricky slab moves. Darrington rules! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 (edited) Great call. Andy and I did it early yesterday and really enjoyed it. IMHO, the climbing is not quite as classic as SR and TS, but that's a pretty high standard to meet. For anyone considering it, the couple loose nuts are not a safety issue. The area got a good hosing from a thundershower, probably on Wednesday. Hopefully the Tstorms are gone, but they left a few smokes in the area. Edited July 31, 2009 by curtveld Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted August 1, 2009 Author Share Posted August 1, 2009 yea, maybe not as classic, but i liked the middle pitches with the small corner and the short but sweet curving flake. glad to motivate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 The Rash and Stance or Dance today - Yo, anyone climb Stance or Dance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 no on either the rash or stance and dance... are they any good? just did blueberry buttress of exfoliation dome today for the first time... what a fantastic route! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Good!, Stance or Dance is definitely 5.10 through the bolted part, thank god for the fat shiney bolts that caught my several falls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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