So Bill.......

[Peter_Puget]

 

Why don't you setup as follows:

 

Bolt=>Hanger=>Quick=>Chain

Edited July 29, 2009 by Peter_Puget

[billcoe]

That would be the preferred way PP. I'm following historical precedent. I think that whomever put in the first round of pro elimanted the hangers because asswipes use to just steal them for their own projects. I don't know that for a fact though. It may have been done for cost reasons as well, since they didn't use any stainless originally either. My chain is primer-painted stainless steel and the bolt is 1/2 x 6-1/4 stainless. I have hangers coming out my ears as I get them in bulk at ClimbMax cause those guys rule.

 

 

Even the chains were short, as if cost was an issue.

 

I'm just guessing though. I do know that some of the plated steel hangers on routes seemed to just disappear seemingly almost the day or so after a route was done. That may have been the first ascentionist though, as one dude was known to place and remove all pins unless the pin was total shit, then and only then would it get left.

[billcoe]

 

BTW, I don't know who did the rusty steel stuff here, but it seems to still be real solid years and years later, despite the scary look to it. I was trying to get one of those 3/8" rust studs out and it was resisting all my attempts at yoinkage with a 2' Crowbar.

[MarkMcJizzy]

I'm following historical precedent.

 

Precedence or not, not using hangers is a really really poor way to go. But I can sympathise with the fact that the hangers are being stolen. As it is, using such a large bolt probably makes up for any loss in anchor design due to increased leverage moment.

[MarkMcJizzy]

The above comments pertain to chain-only anchors where washers are used to pad out the height. Brian Burdo used to do this extensively. If you are able to bolt hard against the rock, I am sure that some of the pertinence of my statements dissipate