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Mt. Assiniboine Beta Request

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We have a trip planned to climb the standard route on Mt. Assiniboine in a few weeks so we're working on putting together our gear for the trip. A few question for those in the know:

1. Can the belayed pitches on the standard route be done with a doubled over twin - long enough?

2. Any suggestions on a rack? We lean towards "a little extra pro is better."

3. Does Gmoser Highway suck as bad as it sounds?

4. Any other info you'd like to share?

 

Thanks

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I climbed it about 5 years ago, and this is what I remember.

 

1. Plenty long. I had a 50m half rope, doubled over.

2. Just bring a few nuts and cams. A really small rack is plenty. There are very few tricky parts, and some fixed pins here and there. In total I think I placed 2 pieces of gear and clipped two pitons when I climbed it.

3. The Gmoser highway is almost harder than the route. Be careful with routefinding. Have you considered the faster approach from the "back side"?

4. If the route is in good shape (mostly snow free) then it is basically a scramble. Even if you are cautious you shouldn't need to rope up until the grey band. Some simul-climbing on a short rope is probably the best way to go from there to the summit. If you are confident, then soloing the route would be a good way to go.

A half dozen or so short rappels will get you below the grey band. Be prepared to back up the rappels or replace webbing.

 

Have fun. It's a really cool peak. If you are staying at Magog lake you can buy beer from the lodge.

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First off, this is a beautiful mountain and well worth the effort. I climbed it 2 years ago. There was almost no snow on the North Ridge, so ice axe and crampons stayed at the hut. The route is mostly 4th class with loose rock and plenty of exposure with maybe 2 pitches that we protected (lower to mid 5th class), which braver souls may have just climbed through. We downclimbed most of the route with a couple rappels with a single rope. The Gmoser highway does suck big time and was hairier than the climb...but I've had worse choss here in Washington. The lodge does in fact have lots of good stuff. You can get beer/wine, food, showers. I would suggest arranging reservations with Sepp for any hut or lodge accomidations. PM me if you have more specific questions and check out my TR from 2007. Cheers!mount_assiniboine_099_2_.jpg

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Thanks for all the info. Nice TR and pics too! I hate loose crap but my climbing partner keeps dragging me up it anyway. Gmoser sounds like it'll be the crux. I haven't seen any recent reports on the route but hoping it'll be mostly snow-free.

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Not sure if it's the same couple that own the lodge anymore, but if it is then the husband is a great source for beta. Met the guy at Berg Lake a couple years ago and he's not surprisingly a wealth of knowledge about all the different routes and variations if you want any specifics.

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Sepp and Barb run the lodge. Sepp usually talks to the climbers about conditions and is a good resource. You can call him (if he's not running around) at (403) 678-2883 or e-mail him at info@assiniboinelodge.com If you are planning on staying at the Hind hut or staying at Lake Magog (camping or huts) he can set you up with reservations and information. Enjoy the trip!mount_assiniboine_022.jpg

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Does anyone have any beta concerning the shorter approach alternative via Radium? How long/far from car to hut? Where's the trailhead exactly. Fees if any? Any other details appreciated.

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Does anyone have any beta concerning the shorter approach alternative via Radium? How long/far from car to hut? Where's the trailhead exactly. Fees if any? Any other details appreciated.

 

It's all in the CAJ.

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It was in one of the issues from the late 90s. You could also look on a map because there's only one logging road going in there... Cross River FSR to Assiniboine Cr then up and over past Lunette Lake. You can get to that off the Settlers Road.

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We went in Friday via Gmosers Highway and grabbed the summit on Saturday with perfect weather. Thanks for the beta. I might add to all the info given so far...keep your head up on the approach so as to not walk right up onto griz!

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Nice work! I hope to see a trip report and pictures. Glad the weather cooperated. Now if it will only stay nice for my trip to Canada next week.

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