[TR] S. Nesakwatch Spire - Dairyland 7/21/2009

[Wakaranai]

Trip: S. Nesakwatch Spire - Dairyland

 

Date: 7/21/2009

 

Trip Report:

I just love the casual feeling and ambiance of this area. A friend and I visited about 6 years ago and did the southwest ridge of the north spire and remembered drooling over the west face of the south spire on the way down. After thumbing through my buddies new Becky guide I was pleased to see a little beta on the exsisting routes there. A call to my friend Stiven and we were off. Full lazy syle as per usual. Hike in, camp on one of the huge flat boulders, wake up late and do some sweet back country cragging. We chose to try "Dairyland" 11a and we were not dissappointed. Stiven and I both agreed that it was nice that the Becky guides route description was somewhat vague. "5.9 dihedral to start, clean splitter to finish and a crux pitch somewhere in between, enough said. To maintain the excitement I wont give away any details but just want to say its worthy, go do it, and enjoy the splitter at the top, its sweet! Crux pitch is super fun too. There seems to be a couple variations, we took a right hand variant. Some loose blocks keep it feeling alpine but overall nice, sound rock. We wanted to link Rexford for some bonus pitches and had plenty of time but decided to be good employees and get to work on time in the morning. I know I know...wimps. Wish we had pictures, sorry. Fairytales and Fantasies looks amazing too. Cant wait to get back out there.

-Sven

 

Gear Notes:

Standard rack, doubles from 0.5 camalot to #2 camalot, 1#3and #4. We both really, really liked having 2 #00 metolius mastercams and hexs for belays.

 

Approach Notes:

My little tracker made it no problem, hike is short, steep and straight to the point.

[G-spotter]

To maintain the excitement I wont give away any details

 

hee hee