Prime RIB

[mzvarner]

Any body climb it lately? if so how is it, and any beta i should know

[fredrogers]

fun. 20-30 min approach. I usually skip the first "pitch" and scramble up the gully to the left (you won't miss any good climbing). you can link p 2-3 w a 60M. With a 70M you can link many of them. I take a mix of draws and runners (nice on the wandering pitches).

 

Just one 60 M rope to get off. Tho' 13 or so raps. Take your approach shoes with you- you will want them for the scramble and the descent.

 

 

 

[penoyar]

As of Thursday there was a nice creek running in the gully climber's left of the first pitch. Route's all dry. If it's your first time up there, you'll probably have some trouble finding the first pitch. Goat Wall can be disorienting, with all the deer trails and talus. If you don't go through the obvious old structures (concrete foundations) within 5 minutes of your car, you parked in the wrong spot and are on the wrong approach trail. Helmets are a must, not for loose rock on the actual climbing pitches, but for the scramble pitches which have plenty of potential energy just waiting to become kinetic. Burdo's guide has excellent topos. Swimming hole isn't so much for swimming, but is great for a quick dunk to rinse off all the dust and sweat.

 

Can you post up if Goat's Beard (Restless Natives) is dry when you return? It's the large white watermark on the main part of Goat Wall. Thanks!

[mzvarner]

Lol i love the potential to kinetic energy. And yeah ill rey to post it up for you

[mzvarner]

Lol i love the potential to kinetic energy. And yeah ill rey to post it up for you

[AR_Guy]

I was up there a few weeks ago - partner and I did the first 8 pitches. I'd say the helmets are a must on the climbing pitches. While I was up on P8, the party ahead of us (linking P8 and the P9 traverse) kicked a few rocks loose. They were literally whizzing as they went by me about 1/2 way up that pitch. Partner had a good tree to hide behind.

 

I'll echo the 'bring slings' or alpine draws. There are some wanderings where extension will help to mitigate rope drag.

 

Get a copy of the topo. We scored LOTS of booty - slings and 'biners from a party that must have been up there just the day before. They must not have known of all the rap stations, etc. as it was obvious from where we found stuff they were rapping 'out of sequence'. If you rap per the topo, there's no need to leave gear behind.

 

Start early - we hit the start around 8am and got through about 4 to 5 pitches before the sun hit us.

 

1 60m is adequate. On the last rap, rap to the left (when facing the wall) to land in the gully up from the start. Else if you rap straight down the last rap aiming for the start, you'll end up 10 meters or so short with a 60. If you end up here, there's a bolt and a nice chickenhead you can sling, or just go from the bolt, for the last 10 meters.

 

It's a fun route for the non-hardman climber. I though the grading of the pitches (on the photo copied, hand drawn topo we had) was a little soft - in line with Exit 38. The one exception to this was the 8th pitch, which (IMO) went from sustained 'real' 5.7 on the lower 1/2 to sustained 'real' 5.8 (balancy, thinner edges, more delicate, non-pumpy) on the upper 1/2. Good exposure on this pitch as well.

[Drederek]

I thought the first pitch was fine, no need to skip it. The 10a pitches were the best IMO. I wouldn't recommend following anyone up it although you'd probably be fine. Are there any routes on the wall above it yet?