Marc_from_Quebec Posted June 23, 2009 Posted June 23, 2009 Hello, I’ll spend a few days in the Seattle area in late July/early August and am looking for info on rock climbing. I know nothing about that area except that you’ve got pretty mountains and good climbing so that’s why I try asking for info here. Unfortunately I have no help to offer in return regarding PNW climbing, but I’ll gladly help you (and show you around if you’d like) if you ever happen to visit Quebec, Canada, or major New England climbing destinations. I’ve got about 10 years of trad climbing experience on a variety of routes and rock types and am used to long routes, rappels, routefinding, etc. I’ve climbed mostly on the East Coast but have done some climbing trips in the western US and Europe. I’ll climb with my girlfriend who’s not very experienced but is eager to climb a nice peak. Our goal is to have fun on a nice easy climb, not to get scared on overhanging crumbling rock. The perfect route I’m looking for would be something like: -A nice place with nice views, in an alpine setting (alpine setting is important since I’d like to climb something I couldn’t find on the East coast). -Multipitch trad (let’s say anywhere from 4 to 10-12 pitches) -Easy (5.4 to 5.7 – not too sustained if at the 5.7 level) -Solid rock -Approach may take up to a few hours if necessary, but we’d rather spend the day climbing than hiking (except if there’s a possibility to hike/camp/climb) -If at all possible, no more than 3h drive from Seattle -Tiny summit a nice bonus, as well as climbing a prominent feature (ridge, corner, crack system, etc.) -The fewest other climbers on the route the better, but I expect that such a nice climb would be very popular. -In a perfect world, there would also be a microbrewery near the trailhead In summary, if you could climb one easy route near Seattle, what would it be? Any and all tips and suggestions are welcomed. Also, if there’s a guidebook you recommend I’d really like to know. Thank you very much, Marc from Quebec Quote
shapp Posted June 23, 2009 Posted June 23, 2009 (edited) If you can pull off one well protected 5.8+ move, the west buttress (blueberry route) on blueberry hill/exfoliation dome would totally meet your requirements (2 hours or less from seattle) 9 pitches, solid granite, excellent scenary, 1 hour approach, camping near by, not too many people, mostly 5.7 and under, true summit, great views. Might be a little exciting for your less experienced partner. All trad gear, including anchors except 2 lead bolts. Description and topos here: http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/dome.htm http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/154443/exfoliation-dome.html http://www.summitpost.org/route/166910/west-buttress.html You will likely be the only ones on this route, or the Becky route on Liberty Bell (but that is a farther drive), in Washington Pass as other suggest below, but there will be loads of people there! Edited June 23, 2009 by shapp Quote
shaoleung Posted June 23, 2009 Posted June 23, 2009 Selected Climbs in the Cascades - Nelson & Potterfield. There are two books. Both are great and have different climbs. I'd send you to Washington Pass. There are a ton of climbs, short approaches. Weeekends get a little busy, but there's a lot to choose from. Quote
S1W Posted June 23, 2009 Posted June 23, 2009 Hi Marc, http://mountainproject.com/v/washington/north_cascades/washington_pass/105797867 Several other routes in that area that fit your criteria as well. A few hours drive from Seattle. Quote
chucK Posted June 24, 2009 Posted June 24, 2009 You want beautiful scenery, I'd echo Washington Pass as the others have suggested. South Arete on South Early Winters Spire hasn't been mentioned yet. More off the beaten path up there is the North Ridge of Cutthroat Peak, mostly 4th class, but a bit of loose 5.7 right at the entrance. May not fit your criteria there, but it won't be crowded like the other standard WA Pass routes will likely be, and it's a ridge run in a very nice area. Another off the path one is Mixup Peak in the Cascade Pass area. That'd be more of a hike and less technical climbing, but again a beautiful area. Might want to camp for this one. This one involves traversing a dying glacier which may add or detract from your interest I guess. If you're able to camp, and you and your partner are already snow and ice hardpeople from up in icy Quebec, then you probably ought to jump on the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Beautful easy (short 5.6 somewhere, I didn't find it) rock climb up precipitous ridge. The crux is the steep snow couloir getting to the ridge. That is why I prefaced this with "if you're an ice hardperson". If you can forsake the rock climbing part, some spectacular summits would be Sahale Peak, Black Peak or Columbia Peak. Quote
Marc_from_Quebec Posted June 30, 2009 Author Posted June 30, 2009 It sounds like Washington Pass might be our best bet. Many thanks to everybody for the suggestions! Marc from Quebec Quote
shapp Posted June 30, 2009 Posted June 30, 2009 avoid driving/climbing there Friday, Sat and Sunday or your drive from seattle will surely be long. Quote
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