Mt. Maude - Entiat Icefall

[Colin]

Can one approach the Entiat Icefall from the Leroy Creek Basing (and traverse around the South Shoulder), or does one have to approach from the other side (Icy Lakes?)?

[Alex]

Yes Colin, you can approach the icefall from Maude Jack Col, about 4 hours from the trailhead up Leroy Creek Basin.

However, that said, the Entiat Icefall does not look all that interesting (IMO, I went up there a few weeks ago), just a short glacial step really. My understanding is that it has lost alot of its character over the years.

Can anyone confirm or deny?

Alex

[dbb]

I would say that the around-icy lake is a better approach for the route. You drop down over the glacial pass and around right below the route. This is compared to crossing below the entire N face, which may not be as desirable... Also, there are great bivi sites along the lake, as well as a year-round snowfield.

As for the route, I'd suggest as late as possible in the year, and climb the left hand side for more challenge (AI3?). Climbing on the left is pretty easy, with only a few steep steps. If you go later in the year, the rock climbing/scrambling on and up to the East ridge is more interesting.

my two cents..