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Posted (edited)

Went out to Tieton a couple weeks ago to climb the cave a bit, and stopped off to mess around on a boulder I had seen on a prior trip in one of those camping areas. It appeared to have a pair of bolts on the top, sorry for the poor picture quality:

tieton1.jpg

Was just curious as to whether or not anyone knew anything about it/some background, couldnt find it in the guide.

Thanks.

 

edit: my computer is being weird and I dont know if that photo posted, so here's a link.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b38/foolinthefotograph/tieton1.jpg

Edited by frankstoneline
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Posted

That boulder is situated in an overused parking lot just west of the truss bridge at a bend in the river that most of the whitewater rafting outfits that ply the river in September use as their take-out. The rock does indeed have a couple of bolts on top, installed several years ago by unknown parties (could have been climbers, could have been climbers employed by the rafting outfits). The graffiti (paint) makes the holds very slippery and tenuous, except for the simplest of routes.

 

There's really nothing special about that boulder, what with its adornment of graffiti, and the parking lot is trashed out with broken bottles, used diapers, etc. If you are really interested in a bouldering experience in the Tieton, then you should take the Wildcat Road up to Road 1362 and head up into The Caldera area. Way cool boulders, neat sub-alpine surroundings, and very private up there.

Posted
That boulder is situated in an overused parking lot just west of the truss bridge at a bend in the river that most of the whitewater rafting outfits that ply the river in September use as their take-out. The rock does indeed have a couple of bolts on top, installed several years ago by unknown parties (could have been climbers, could have been climbers employed by the rafting outfits). The graffiti (paint) makes the holds very slippery and tenuous, except for the simplest of routes.

 

There's really nothing special about that boulder, what with its adornment of graffiti, and the parking lot is trashed out with broken bottles, used diapers, etc. If you are really interested in a bouldering experience in the Tieton, then you should take the Wildcat Road up to Road 1362 and head up into The Caldera area. Way cool boulders, neat sub-alpine surroundings, and very private up there.

 

I didnt really have any problems with the graf being slick, most places the rock seemed textured enough that it didnt really matter. It seemed to have a couple neat climbs, including a a weird sit start crimp and sloper problem on the side facing the place where you pull in, and a weird crimpy start that worked it's way up to the top on a corner facing the river nearest the road

Posted

I don't think so, which is a shame. Pretty cool venue. Since moving to the Oklahoma Dustbowl of Washington four years ago, it's not worth the trip anymore just to go bouldering. Before the move, I went there several times and never saw anyone else.

Posted

Damn right, Broken Glass boulder is a damn good boulder, I've wasted myself many times down at Cozy's and the Meddle Shop. I like the tieton bouldering just bc it is so quiet and pristine. Miss it mucho!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I don't take cameras with me when I go bouldering. But you can see pictures of the area and selected climbs on pages 134 to 139 in this book:

BOK-204.jpg

Posted
I don't take cameras with me when I go bouldering. But you can see pictures of the area and selected climbs on pages 134 to 139 in this book:

BOK-204.jpg

 

Handsome guy on the cover.

 

Not to harsh too much on the Caldera, but it's being oversold a bit. There are a few fun problems if you're in the area (which is to say, climbing at Wildcat), but the place is pretty much limited to two, maybe three quality boulders, one of which has nothing harder than V0.

 

There is some other, better bouldering potential in the Tieton, including one spot that might be a legitimate area if someone has the energy to scub a bit. Like the Caldera, it's a quiet spot high in the hills with a nice view.

 

Drater, I'm probably passing through Sandpoint in a couple of weeks.

Posted
Handsome guy on the cover.

Uh huh, yeah sure Andy... ;)

 

Not to harsh too much on the Caldera, but it's being oversold a bit.

Well, I had to get these kids away from that unsightly blob at the rafters' take-out. It seemed to be all they could think about... :whistle:

Posted
has the energy to scub a bit. Like the Caldera,

Drater, I'm probably passing through Sandpoint in a couple of weeks.

 

From which direction to which direction? You want to bolder on decent granite, good gneiss, or hideous volcanic choss? Or if you're headed (or coming from) Hwy 2, a slight detour gets us the limestonez.

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