Hayley Sierra Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Trip: Dorado Needle and Klawatti Peak - NW ridge, W face Date: 5/24/2009 Trip Report: Dorado Needle and Klawatti Peak Nick and I returned to the Eldorado Icecap over Memorial Day weekend to tackle some unfinished business from last year. On a four day outing with Valerie in August, we were unable to access Klawatti Peak and Dorado Needle due to late season moat issues. This weekend, we had great snow all the way up! We donned our heavy packs and set out on the Eldorado Creek trail on Saturday morning. The trail was melted out, but we hit snow near the top of the second boulder field which took us up to the lower camps (~6000 ft). Several skiers passing us on their way down warned us of soft snow slides higher up, and when we reached the camps we saw just what they were talking about. The entire ridgeline that we needed to climb to get to Eldorado glacier was in various stages of avalanching (from shallow debris to hanging cornices!). With the heat of the day baring down on us, we decided to wait until morning to give it a go. Avalanche debris on the ridge With a 5 am start the next day, we found the snow nicely consolidated, and we safely gained the ridge (whew!). We made great time up the glacier, traversed the Inspiration glacier, and made it to the McCallister col by 8 am. A team of four had already set out about an hour ahead of us, so we had great steps leading to the base of the route up Dorado Needle. Dorado Needle from McCallister col (the team of four is visible midway up the glacier) To access the route, which is described as 2-3 pitches of 5.4 climbing, we first climbed a short section of steep snow (Nick belayed me up). We then caught up with the party ahead and took our turn on the 2 pitches of mixed steep snow and rock. The highlight of the climb is a ~10 ft section of au cheval near the summit! Pitch 2, with a climber making a tricky move at the top of the snow slope. The top was sunny and calm, so we were in no hurry to leave while we waited for the other group to take turns downclimbing/rappelling the route. Snowshoes were great for the trip back to the col, and we were back in camp by 3 pm. We had a leisurely afternoon in camp with lots of photography and snow melting. We decided to climb Klawatti on Monday morning, hoping for more consolidation overnight. At 6:30 am we roped out and set out to Klawatti col, which took around 30 minutes to reach. The sun was already heating up the snow on the glacier, but we found the snow slopes leading up Klawatti to be in excellent condition. The route follows the west-facing slope directly up (40-50 degrees) for ~1000 feet, then we traversed left to gain the NW face, which was slightly less steep. We both agreed that a second tool would have been nice, although not necessary. We were at the summit in one hour from the col. Looking up the west face Downclimbing the route took almost as long as going up because we had to back down most of the way, but we experienced no problems during the descent. We then began the long trip back to the trailhead, arriving at the car with tired legs at 4 pm. Gear Notes: Set of cams (0.3-1), slings, 3 pickets for Dorado Needle Snowshoes for afternoon glacier travel Second tool for Klawatti? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterboy Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Good Job Hayley. I was with that group of skiers you talked to on the way down. (The others in the group were Oyvind and Joe). We were just coming down from the Forbidden tour on Friday/Saturday. I hope to file a TR soon. How do you like your Hilleberg? I had mine with me on the trip, too. Anyway, good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le Piston Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Thanks for the great TR. I did Klawatti and Eldorado last year and had similar soft/unstable snow conditions. Post hole a go-go! I'm hoping to do Dorado Needle and Austera in June. Was there much of a schrund on Klawatti? I remember the snow collapsing on me trying to get around it on the way up and not wanting to downclimb it (we found a "creative" way to get off) Nice pictures man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franklinb Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Good meeting you. Glad you enjoyed our steps and thanks for being patient up the Needle. The steps were getting firm when we came down Klawatti, so figure they'd be solid for you in the AM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayley Sierra Posted May 27, 2009 Author Share Posted May 27, 2009 waterboy: I love my Hilleburg. Four pounds for a 2 person, 4-season tent just can't be beat! Le Piston: The schrund on Klawatti was just opening up. I heard another party fell part way into the moat on the previous evening. Last August, it was at least 15 feet deep and completely impassible. Now is definitely the time to get that one in! franklinb: Thanks again for the steps! Hope to see you around soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Strong work. It sounds like it was a busy weekend on the Inspiration/McAllister, considering I personally know of two parties that were up there. I know what you mean about the moat. When I climbed Klawatti, Austera, and Eldorado (solo daytrip) in August of 2004, I dropped my ice axe about 100' under the moat. I climbed down into the dark, wet abyss and was barely able to retrieve it (I didn't have a rope, so it was a precarious downclimb). Once above ground again, I encountered near-vertical moss on the way up to the summit. Definitely one of the more interesting climbs I've done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterboy Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Hayley, Glad you like the Hilleberg. I also have after-market carbon fiber poles which shave another 8 ounces off the weight. And then the real fun begins when you have great weather forecasts and can leave the rain fly behind and are left with a 2-person tent that's a little over a pound! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le Piston Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 I thought I was the only one stupid enough to solo up the mossy rock past the bergschrund. When I was standing on the lip of the schrund climbing to the left toward the rock, the snow was collapsing under my feet. I had a spreadeagle crossing of the snow bridge to the right...good memories! You are an animal man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Sounds like a great outing! I'm amazed how much snow is stuck to Dorado. Same spot in late September: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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