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Trip: Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier (attempt)

 

Date: 5/17/2009

 

Trip Report:

made an attempt on the kautz glacier route this sunday but didn't even leave our 10,000 foot high camp due to tent-flattening winds.

view of the route from the wilson glacier

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we found knee to waist deep unconsolidated snow on the approach with a fairly high avalanche danger. good crevasse coverage at the moment. only roped up on the nisqually. the snow firmed up as we got higher onto the wind scoured wilson.

high camp

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hiking back down the next morning we found the wilson gully FULL of avy debris. millions of pounds of slab avalanche broke off from the slopes above and carried the debris 500 feet out onto the nisqually. SHIT. thank god we climbed it early in the morning! this photo doesn't do justice to the massiveness of the slide

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view of the route on the way out

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feel free to contact me with any beta questions on the kautz or nearby routes. fuhrer finger looked good!

 

Approach Notes:

bring snowshoes or die

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Posted

Our two man team made the summit on Sunday via Muir and Ingraham Direct route. Several teams ascended Gib Ledges and came down Ingraham. Heard reports of thigh deep snow up high but we found good snow and Ingraham Direct was in excellant shape. Couple of teams were carrying shoes but we left ours in the car. Clear skies but very windy on summit. We could see those huge slides humping back down the Muir snowfield.

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