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Trip: Mt. Hood - Leuthold's Couloir

 

Date: 4/20/2009

 

Trip Report:

Jared posted on CC, looking for a partner for the Sandy glacier Headwall on Mt. Hood. Having faith in the climbers on CC.com, I replied and said great, let's go. On Monday night into Tuesday, Jared Janowiak and I climbed Leuthold's Couloir instead of the Headwall. There was a strong warming trend and the freezing level was above the summit that night. We thought that rock fall may be too much on the Headwall. We were also cautious about Leuthold, but decided to take a look.

( I should note, that Jared did a trail race on Sunday, then drove down to Portland on Monday evening, picked me up, climbed over 5000 feet in elevation, then drove back to Seattle without crashing his car on the return drive. Impressive)

 

Anyway, we got to Illumination saddle in a little over 2 hours and then got ready for the glacier. It was cold once we stopped. There was one other group ahead of us, but that is Hood. There is always someone climbing. We got going and ended up taking the couloir just to the left of Leuthold for a while. We were trying to avoid the rock and ice fall from the group ahead of us and got off route a bit. No problem. It ended up being a steeper and more exciting adventure than I remember Leuthold being. We had a nice view of the sunrise shadow of Mt. Hood.

Hood_sunrise.jpg

We eventually had to traverse over, which cost us some time, but we were well off that face before the sun hit.

 

Couloir_entrance.jpg

 

couloir_jason.jpg

 

couloir_top.jpg

 

traverse1.jpg

 

Soon we made it to the queen's chair and took a short break. This is a picture of Jared looking towards Helens, Adams, and Rainier.

queens_chair.jpg

Then came the long hike up the last snow field. The snow on this portion of the mountain is crappy styrofoam. Always best to follow a trail on this section.

 

nearing_top.jpg

 

We had the sun as soon as we made the summit ridge.

 

first_light.jpg

 

We had a good snack and break on the summit then it was time to get down. No problem getting down to the hogsback. Then came a long descend down. It is good to have someone you can talk with, because this descent is long and boring. We could see a little white speck that was the car for the entire decent. Some nice glacades helped. I convinced Jared to take the quickest and easiest way down the magic mile, which saved us some time.

 

It was a great trip, with a very strong climbing partner. Jared really did most of the step kicking, while carrying an extra 2 gallons of water. I like climbing with people training for trips to Alaska.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Glacier gear, 2 tools and Jared

 

Approach Notes:

Drive to parking lot and park below the large flood light.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hey man, that sure was a fun day! So scenic, and Jason was a real solid partner. The drive home did require some concentration. That was my first time up Hood, and was a great day with awesome conditions, and a good conditioner for Alaska. That descent sure was long!

 

Unfortunately, the Alaska conditioning was mostly for naught . At least I made it out in one piece. Unfortunately, that means the Kain face is out for me this summer. Maybe a raincheck?

Edited by jared_j

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