Sam Hill - Don't forget arete

[shaoleung]

Cool little climb. We ended the day with it, but the nuts were loose on the anchor bolts. We removed the death-wish mini quick links and left some good rapp hardware. If someone plans to climb it, bring a wrench (a torque wrench at 20 ft lbs...billcoe?) and maybe some loctite.

Edited April 21, 2009 by shaoleung

[scm007]

Why would you say death-wish mini quick links? Those things are pretty bomber. Back it up with another sling if you are that worried about it.

[shaoleung]

Good question. Quick links are great. My partner left one up there: 3/8" stainless quick link rated to over 1800 lbs. The ones on there were 1/4" which are rated to about 800 lbs assuming they were good quality stainless. These are not UIAA ratings, so I usually take them with a grain of salt.

 

Generally with anchors I like to be over-cautious. Yes, some folks get ridiculous about this, but if you're relying on one piece of gear you may as well cover some bases. Rap anchor failure kills a lot of climbers every year despite appearing pretty bomber.

 

Even a short fall/slip can generate a factor 1 force on the anchor... roughly 1300 lbs. Again, while this is unlikely, it happens and 5 or 6 kN is pretty comfortably beyond the quick link's already questionable rating.

 

I could have just used a piece of webbing. Absolutely a valid solution. However, it's a climb at a very popular area and plenty of people use those anchors. The Leavenworth crew that develops routes spend a ton of their own time and $$ on each route. I feel like a little extra time and hardware for an anchor is no skin off my back.

[brendan w]

In addition to the concern about strength there was the very real issue of being able to easily pull the rope due to the poor configuration of quick links. The current configuration should offer better safety (we equalized the bolts with a sliding x) and the rope pulled much easier than it had previously.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/666284/TR_Icicle_Creek_Sam_Hill_Don_t#Post666284

 

Edited April 21, 2009 by brendan w

[Off_White]

I feel like a little extra time and hardware for an anchor is no skin off my back.

 

Thanks

[lancegranite]

You said the bolts at the anchor are loose?

[shaoleung]

Bolts are solid, but the the nuts were loose... big difference... my apologies