New Sport Climbing Area?

[drater]

I've heard rumors lately of a new sport climbing area in North Central Washington...supposed to be really steep and on good rock.

 

I've also heard there's gonna be a guidebook for the area.

 

Anybody willing to spill the beans?

[drater]

Ooh, just got a nasty email from some concerned locals, apparently it's not fit for public consumption.

 

So I won't mention that it's on some cliffs above a lake above Pateros that shares a name with a no snowboards allowed resort in Utah.

 

Not that it matters since the park is scheduled for closure and there won't be any access soon.

 

http://www.krem.com/sharedcontent/northwest/specialreport/stories/NW_032009WAB-list-possible-state-park-closures-TP.54b82f9c.html

 

 

[cappellini]

i have been to some spurt crags closer to the columbia near pateros that are on relatively crappy rock like that of banks lake. there are a few routes installed there but it is primarily a novelty area and not really worth the gas if your interested in climbing exclusively. if you like pleasant sagebrush valleys, seclusion, and trespassing this is your spot.

 

i also know that there is some supreme rock in a canyon (old jeep road) between alta lake and antoine creek. Last i knew there were no pre-placed expansion bolts for your convenience on these crags.

 

 

[drater]

Cappellini, are you referring to the cliffs on the East side of the Columbia from Pateros, above the orchard? I got ran out of there years ago by the orchardist before I could check it out but the rock looked good.

 

The boulders down by the Columbia on the west side have a smattering of excellent problems, especially if you like featureless diamond cut slabs.

 

I've done some climbing up the antoine creek drainage back in the day too, no bolts there from my knowledge.

[Macson]

I'd really appreciate any beta if someone would email me. My inlaws live in Methow a few miles north of Pateros and we're over there all the time in the summer.

[drater]

Those boulders between hwy 97 and the Columbia 1 mile south of Pateros I mentioned above are awesome. Also, check out the great bouldering along the river about 10 miles up the Methow, right where all the kayakers put in.

 

[mountainsloth]

there is some interesting bouldering up the entiat river road. I checked them out last summer and there are some fun problems. If I remember correctly, they are around mile marker 15 or 20 on the right. If you are looking you can't miss a giant 40 foot arrowhead looking rock through the woods.

[drater]

Milemarker 22 if my memory serves me correct. Dan Gleason FA'd all that shizzle back in '94 and then tought me the finer arts of bouldering there.

 

Except the death flake in that awesome overhanging dihedral. He wouldn't let me at with a crowbar and it was too scary to pull on.

 

Ethics and all that...