cbcbd Posted February 10, 2009 Posted February 10, 2009 (edited) Trip: Hood - North Face Date: 2/8/2009 Trip Report: To get it while the getting is good, quasimoto, flatnose, and I headed up the right gully of Hood's NE aspect (aka North Face). For those looking to stay at Tilly Jane on a weekend night... do yourself a favor and bring freakin earplugs and lots of beer to knock you out. 10pm excited yelps and screams, dueling recorders playing various movie theme songs, and impromptu steel drum jams were the crux of our short night. Left Tilly at 2:40am... some new snow fell between the last report and us. We got to the shrund at around 6-6:30... had some fun getting through on the left side and then wallowing to the base of the first ice pitch. The first couple ice pitches are easy snice with no pro... but who needs them there anyway. The last ice pitch was fun easy AI3 with plenty of pro if needed. Top section was soft thunker AI lightly covered in snow for most of it. The snow gully sections included much wallowing in unconsolidated powder on top of hardish ice. Some sections of neve but not that many. Took a little longer than expected, on summit at around 1:30-2pm. In the end it was a real calf-burner, with calf-saving step-kicking neve being replaced by front and side-pointing snice. Quasi and flatn did a damn fine effort breaking trail up the face. We descended on the South - inf, from last week's report, had told us they were downclimbing blue ice on the South. This week we were downclimbing blue ice covered by 4-6" of snow. There were poking and hidden blue ice bulges all the way down to the top of the Palmer lift - made for a great game of "roll your ankle unexpectedly with every step". Wallow wallow Gear Notes: 5 screws (could've done with 3), 2 pickets (used both), 2 pins (used but not needed). Approach Notes: Icy up to Tilly Jane, neve up to the base of shrund, wallowing snow to base of gully. Edited February 10, 2009 by cbcbd Quote
ivan Posted February 10, 2009 Posted February 10, 2009 great shit - that last picture is frak'n sweeet! so did ya'll lug all your bivy shit up the route and back down the s side or are you too afeared of having your crap stolen? don't know why more folks don't do a light weight bivy right at the base of the route - very early/fresh start on the route and a quick/easy descent down the spur and you're money! Quote
quazimoto Posted February 10, 2009 Posted February 10, 2009 nuckin nice doug-o ur a rockstar-my flu like symptoms have supresssed since our 15hr jaunt of coughing and snezzing shit out all night and day(alpine rehab at its finest)also EDIT "could have done w/3 screws " actually 2 if i remember right as that was all that we placed the entire rt.gr8 time fellas awesome day. Quote
cbcbd Posted February 10, 2009 Author Posted February 10, 2009 great shit - that last picture is frak'n sweeet! Hell yeah! Now I owe Kevin (quasi) a nice glory shot. so did ya'll lug all your bivy shit up the route and back down the s side or are you too afeared of having your crap stolen? No lugging. Quasi took no pad/no bag to the hut. I took a pad, no bag. flatnose brought bag/pad/stove and coincidentally his buddy was up at the hut and agreed to take his stuff down with him. And talking of crap stolen... the group from last week had some stuff missing when they went back to fetch. Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted February 11, 2009 Posted February 11, 2009 Nice job on that. Crazy how conditions change in a week. All that powder showed up where there was ice and neve before. Sounds like Tilly Jane treated you folks worse than it did for us. Quote
WageSlave Posted February 11, 2009 Posted February 11, 2009 That was me above. I'll have to do the no pad/bag thing next time for the bivy. Quote
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