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South Coast PWL and Alpine climbing conditions


G-spotter

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I know the coming weekend looks like a great one for climbing in the alpine.

 

WA Cascades seem to be going off with some big climbs while around here, hardly anyone is in the mts. because of scary Rockies-like avalanche conditions with a deeply buried facet layer at or near ground.

 

I wanted to know more about conditions for climbing specifically because the avalanche.ca South Coast forecast is oriented mainly to skiiers, so I sent an email to a friend who is one of the forecsters and also an old climbing partner asking specifically if the stability in the WA Cascades extends into BC and if so is it known how far.

 

His response was pretty interesting and here it is:

 

Geez good question…… I know that the early season weather (i.e. low snowpack followed by rain then snow then clear and cold then more snow) that formed the PWL (commonly referred to as the Dec 5th facet/crust combo) definitely affected the Washington Cascades. There have been a couple of major avalanche cycles associated with this PWL, which haven’t necessarily wiped it out as a thick layer of facets often remained on the bed surface for reloading. I think the difference is that the Washington Cascades, like the North Shore, received a couple of significant rain events at the beginning of January forming thick crusts and percolation channels that are anchoring everything in place. In the South Coast region it is now buried by a deep and stiff slab that is effectively bridging it from light loads in all but thin snowpack areas. But, and here’s the kicker, the general consensus is that it’s largely unpredictable and not to be trusted. Furthermore, the ensuing avalanche is bound to be a hummer. If I were you I’d spend some time poking around, probing is often sufficient to feel the crust, gauge it’s depth and determine if there is loose faceted snow on or around it. Digging a hole would also be a worthwhile exercise if you’re uncertain. I would be very cautions in thin rocky areas, tread lightly. How’s that for beating around the bush?

 

So if you are out in the mts this weekend - be cautious and tread carefully. FWIW It sounds like lower elevations closer to the border are more stable than higher stuff further inland (eg. Silvertip or Outram) to me.

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Dug a hole in the Coquihalla on Tuesday. Went all the way to ground 185HS. Snowpack in a nutshell is a "classic" west coast pack at this point. Except for the bottom 20-30 cms.. this has the basal facets that we have been tracking all season, that are tending to round out to more of a mixed form. temps are warm around these layers (promoting rounding.) The dec 6 facets, mixed form, were NOT reactive to any kind of testing. and I layed every test I know on them. But I have to agree with forecaster pal, its the thin spots were they may be more reactive to a ski or a snow shoe. the profile I dug was encouraging to see it all get progresivly stronger. but I still have the eary feeling if i get into too steep or unsupported terrain. I know some of my guiding friends are sneaking out into the steep.. But they have their Radar still FULLY up regarding them facets.. on a Different note.. Is there good skiing on Outram? im sorta embarassed to admit I have never been up there.

 

Chris Link.

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Dug a hole in the Coquihalla on Tuesday.

 

What was the aspect? Thinking there might be some strong variation in stability depending on solar exposures . . . (?)

 

Is there good skiing on Outram? im sorta embarassed to admit I have never been up there.

 

Yes, but it's a long slong in the forest to get there and I betcha they could've done the NHL all star game up there right now.

 

 

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aspect was north. But that was one of many holes I have dug is as many weeks on all aspects.. those facets/mix forms are gettin tougher for now, in my opinion. but the new deal is the surface hoar/crust combo that resides at the surface right now.. after burial i suspect it will act up fairly easy. its not widespread, just sheltered mid (1400asl) elevation areas.

 

Cheers

Chris.

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