Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
lisa

Fernow

Recommended Posts

Hi Lisa, I think I met you in Leroy basin a month or so ago. I was just coming back from climbing Fernow with my dad and we stopped and talked to you and your partner.

If you’re thinking about climbing it from Leroy basin (I assume you are, based on our conversation), I don’t think there is a way to skirt that glacier remmant that you will need to descend. The snow was pretty steep there when you first start descending (I’m guessing 25-30 degrees) and it was hard the morning we were there, so I was glad to have my mountaineering boots on. Still light hikers teamed up with aluminum crampons would be a good light option if you were so inclined.

Have a good climb.

Here are my notes from the Fernow climb.

CLIMB: SEVEN FINGER JACK AND FERNOW VIA THE SOUTH WEST GULLY

DATE: 6/22-6/23/01

THE PARTICULARS:

The approach – After 3 miles (approx 1 hour) you cross Leroy creek, a good size creek. On the other side you’ll find a trail leading up to the basin. It’s a direct steep trail, you’ll get a good workout.

The bivy - plenty of camping in the basin. For Fernow there are also some bivy sites at the 7,100 col before dropping down on to the glacier.

The route – Seven Finger Jack is straight forward. Just make sure you climb the right finger, which is on the far left of the summit area. Don’t get sucked into climbing the ones further to the right.

For Fernow climb from the basin up to 7,100 foot col. You’ll find the 3rd class rock that will allow you to access the glacier about 200 feet to the left of the col. Descending the glacier and climbing the wide gully is straight forward. The gully has easy heather and slabby terrain down low and then bad talus up higher. At the very top of the gully is a broad col, do not climb quite that far. Immediately to the left of the broad col climb the first narrow gully that leads to the ridge crest. Here you’ll find wide easy ledges that lead across the south east face to the last 75-100 feet of 3rd class scrambling to get to the summit.

The descent – For both climbs just reverse the route.

The rack – No gear, no rope. You may want to bring crampons for the glacier on the way to Fernow (especially if late season).

The time: Approach 3 hours to Leroy creek basin.

Seven Finger Jack Route 2-3 hours up. 1-1.5 hours down.

Fernow 5 hours from camp to the summit. 4 hours back to camp.

Another 2 hours back to the cars.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have a good trip. I was thinking of heading out that way again sunday-tuesday. what route are you doing? I think this time I'm going to do Chiwawa via Lyman Gl. and then just kinda hang out. Shoot me an email and let me know how it went.

Ross

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×