West Lion NE Buttress-Winter?

[MarkJ]

Has anyone done this route in the winter? I understand there is some avi hazard on the scree slope to access, but has it been done recently? Access point, route info, etc?

[G-spotter]

It gets done fairly regularly, in fact it is probably one of the more popular winter lines out there. Last ascent I know of was in '05 though. Bring some big hexes or big tricams to protect icy fist crack.

[Don_Serl]

two choices to get there, both starting via Lions Bay and the Harvey Creek logging road:

 

1. branch off the road onto the Binkert trail [~800m] and climb to the knoll where the trail angle eases [~1250m]. angle left [east] up across the bowl NW of the peak and climb to and pass thru a distinct gap in the NW ridge [~1450m]. downclimb into the basin N of the peak [losing maybe 60m-80m altitude]. then either:

(a) traverse across the basin to the bottom of the NE buttress, or

(b) climb up the 'gut' at the right side of the N face, then traverse the snowramp left (east) to gain the NE buttress above the initial steep section.

 

2. continue up the Harvey Ck road to the head of the valley (spur road, then open country at end of valley). climb a gully to the slopes above the headwall rimming the valley head - easiest is fairly far left. traverse steep snowslopes back right (west) to the base of the NE buttress. this can be climbed directly (as 1a above), or a gully on the east face can be used to reach the shoulder above the initial steep section (as per 1b above, but from the opposite side of the buttress).

 

option 2 crosses more avvy-prone terrain (above the headwall), but if snow conditions are firm enough to allow consideration of the climb, they shoudl also be firm enough to be safe - in deep soft fresh snow, you're not gonna get anywhere near the route, let alone up it (let alone down safely...)!

 

good luck - the Lions in winter are special: very close to town, but fully serious. and tougher to do than one might think - you'll get only 1 or 2 weather/conditions window each winter. and those windows don't respect weekends for timing...

 

cheers,

 

p.s. Fairley's guide p24 is a useful photo of the terrain.

Edited December 26, 2008 by Don_Serl

[MarkJ]

excellent Don, thanks for that.