Mtguide Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 Any TR's, photos, on N. Face of Mt. Monarch,(Coast Range); Sikes' Slab (Powell River, B.C.), and Mt. Denman (also perhaps near Powell R.) would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 It's Psyche Slab. If you spell it right you can Google a ton of info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 monarch is finest single peak in the coast mtns. yes, considerably lower and smaller than waddington, but more awe-inspiring, more isolated, and more climber-friendly. are u interested in the NE face on the main summit? or the N face on the N summit? both are visible in john scurlock's photo: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/76665438 the summit is 3555m; the NE face (shadowed, below the main summit) rises from the schrund at 2800m. the N summit is 3346m; the schrund on its N side is at ~2880m. you'll find modern-era TR's in the CAJ for just a few trips since the 80s. Bill Durtler, Bruce Fairley, and I climbed the N ridge in 2000 (from sunny snow-col at lower centre up and right to N summit, then skyline and behind to main summit) - 2 bivies on ridge, 1 on descent. google 'mount monarch north ridge' and the AAJ article with photo will surf up. pm or email me if u want... good luck. cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1978/canada1978_538-554.pdf Google turns up a note from Beckey in the 78 AAJ briefly listing the south buttress on Monarch. Details are lacking in the account. Don, do you know if this line is bascially the left hand ridge in the Scurlock photo below? If so, looks classy and moderate. http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/94682902 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 yup, with Dennis Mullen. there's a gap in the ridge mid-height (somewhere in the hard-to-see-section in the Scurlock photo). i seem to recall they bivvied there - Dennis soloed to the summit and back, cuz Fred wasn't feeling well the next morning. certainly classy... and probably more predictable than the ice on the hanging glacier on the Hall-Fuhrer route on the east face. cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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