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Posted

monarch is finest single peak in the coast mtns. yes, considerably lower and smaller than waddington, but more awe-inspiring, more isolated, and more climber-friendly.

are u interested in the NE face on the main summit? or the N face on the N summit? both are visible in john scurlock's photo:

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/76665438

the summit is 3555m; the NE face (shadowed, below the main summit) rises from the schrund at 2800m. the N summit is 3346m; the schrund on its N side is at ~2880m.

you'll find modern-era TR's in the CAJ for just a few trips since the 80s. Bill Durtler, Bruce Fairley, and I climbed the N ridge in 2000 (from sunny snow-col at lower centre up and right to N summit, then skyline and behind to main summit) - 2 bivies on ridge, 1 on descent. google 'mount monarch north ridge' and the AAJ article with photo will surf up.

pm or email me if u want...

good luck.

cheers,

Posted

yup, with Dennis Mullen. there's a gap in the ridge mid-height (somewhere in the hard-to-see-section in the Scurlock photo). i seem to recall they bivvied there - Dennis soloed to the summit and back, cuz Fred wasn't feeling well the next morning.

certainly classy... and probably more predictable than the ice on the hanging glacier on the Hall-Fuhrer route on the east face.

cheers,

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