swalsh Posted July 19, 2001 Share Posted July 19, 2001 Has anyone done this lately? Mainly interested in what kind of shape the approach across the Coleman Glacier is in. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted July 19, 2001 Share Posted July 19, 2001 I tried this several weeks ago and could not get to the base. I would not waste your time going up there now. There may be a way to go from the base of the N. ridge, or totraverse round from the colman demming route, but I would not count on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 19, 2001 Share Posted July 19, 2001 I climbed the North Ridge last August and at that time it was barely possible to complete a more direct approach up the middle of the Coleman Glacier while much easier to climb the right edge of the Coleman to the height of the bottom of the headwall, and then traverse up and left, then down and left to end up below the headwall. This is, I believe, the most commonly used Summer approach for both the Coleman Headwall and the North Ridge and this approach usually does not require any descent into and climb out of a crevasse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted July 19, 2001 Share Posted July 19, 2001 As of right now, many Coleman Headwall Parties and North rige parties are leaving from camp low However, the quickest way to go is definitely high and traverse over as previously mentioned. Don't get suckered by all the boot tracks. There are a few sets of tracks high though. We just climbed the North Ridge. Last August when we climbed the Coleman Headwall, we did a ton of stupid gerrymandering trying to get to the headwall. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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