[TR] tocclaraju peru - may08

[joblo7]

Trip: tocclaraju peru - reg

 

Date: end may 08

 

Trip Report:

so , at the end of april i went climbing.i was alone and was going out for a week to climb a number of 5000m peaks close to huaraz and possibly more. i fell in the first few hours. i was climbing a vertical step about 5m high and flew off . i landed on my side, broke my collar bone and wrist.i was at about 4900m , so i left all my gear behind and walked the 4hrs out.gotplastered, wrist, that night and 2 days later operated on to put a plate on my collarbone.

a month later i needed to get back in the mountains. met felix d. in town and we agreed to go climb. he is a very strong rock climber, 5.12/13 , or whatever but this would be his first time on ice.

we went to pashpa,and hired a mule driver and 1 mule. i still felt like a wuss even though i could not put weight on my shoulder.4hrs later we're at ishinca base camp.

next day we left to go to camp one. i went ahead and tried to carry about 20lbs. felix, a strapper from edinburr was carrying 35-40. 1/2 hr after you leave basecamp you bear left on the trail to begin climbing the moraine. i did.felix kept going straight. i went up to moraine camp and waited.flix was a little sick so i waited more.then i went all the way down to basecamp to get him.no there. since i had the tent and him the food, i went back up again to find him.he had kept going straight and turned left later and made his way to the snows.i got to the glacier at nitefall but did not see him.i camped and next day moved up early to fnd him. an hour later i see a guy high up on the glacier.alone. i set up the tent and later flix came back down, we shouted at each other and made our plan for next day.we got up at4-5 and followed the track up the glacier.nobody had summitted yet this season so beta was sparse.we met a couple people coming down with the usual, too much snow.eventually there was a single set of tracks.we were told a japanese and his wife topped out the day before.we got to the base of the ridge, and i set off to lead. 60% ice. 40m. it was little tricky with one arm.the rest was easy until the last 60m pitch that leads to the summit plateau.there, flix wanted to lead so off he went and all i had to do is follow the blood trail.no gloves.he could not exit onto the plateau as there was a tricky 3m ,vertical snow wall. i went up , took the gear ,and downclimbed a little around a crevasse and onto the other flank. there the ice was fine and went up to the plateau. 20 min later we 're on the summit. flix first 6000m.

cool.

 

Gear Notes:

couple pickets,screws, 2 tools (for both of us)hahaha

 

Approach Notes:

2hr car, 3hr walk

[joblo7]

route is left ridge line

felix slept out the first nite!

 

on summit with cell

 

 

 

 

 

felx's first ice lead!

 

ranrapalca's north face

[wayne]

Yea! Great job gettin back on the Horse!

[Stefan]

f'n no way. you broke your collarbone and then went out to climb a month later. Um. Dude.

 

no way! way!

 

that usually takes about 2 months if I am not mistaken.

Edited October 3, 2008 by Stefan

[joblo7]

well.. with the plate and 4 screws its quicker, the day after the operation, we went trekking 6hrs to retrieve my pack at 5000m.

 

do what you want! want what you do!