Taping vs. not Taping Fingers

[Jens]

I am hearing that some people are suggesting that we should rethink conventional wisdom about supportive taping of fingers for rock climbing.

Does anyone have any knowledge of the subject? Should tape be applied to prevent injury of fingers (middle & ring finger)? What if one was trying to climb while nursing an injury, or doesn't want to take a major long layoff? Is taping bad?

One school of thought is that ligament injuries in fingers should be taped while tendon problems should not be taped. How does one tell the difference without consulting a doctor?

[Courtenay]

To Tape or Not To Tape: http://www.bodyresults.com/E2fingertraining.htm

Rule of thumb: if at all possible, to help strengthen the tendons and ligaments (which take longer to get used to climbing than the muscles do) DO NOT tape (much like belt use to lifters--only use when going for max lifts or PR's).

However, if you're recovering from an injury to the tendons or ligaments and desperate to ease back into climbing, then taping can provide extra support. If you're relying on the tape to get you through the climb, you very likely shouldn't be back climbing yet--or should limit yourself to footwork, juggy holds, and easy routes, rather than crimpers and mono digit routes.

Tendons and ligaments take much longer to heal than muscle strains, so the best advice is to make sure not to go there in the first place -- with sensible training, adequate rest, proper warm-up and stretching, and backing off at the first sign of problems, you should be able to avoid strain.

Hope this helps.

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Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

[mneagle]

I read an editorial, in Climbing Magazine I think, by a researcher who had done cadaver studies of whether taping fingers decreased risk of injury. His findings were that taping did not affect the durability of the tendons. He made a comment however that these studies were done on intact tendons and whether or not taping injured or previously injured tendons improves their strength is still not clear.

[Drederek]

Lots of info om fingers in climbing rags. My personal experience is that you can't tell when you've done damage for a few hrs/days afterward unless you really reamed it. After the damage is done taping helps. I tape 24/7 till after the pain goes away. If you keep cranking it will not get better. Might be time to work on cardio. I would not tape for prevention unless I knew I had to hang my 185 off of one finger. D