[TR] West McMillan Spire - West Ridge 9/13/2008

[PVD]

Trip: West McMillan Spire - West Ridge

 

Date: 9/13/2008

 

Trip Report:

First, for those of you interested only in route conditions, here you go...

On Sept. 13:

 

 

As you can see, there’s a lot of snow. I did not have any difficulties moving from snow to rock. There was a small moat in places. This was my first climb of West McMillan Spire, and I found conditions to be terrific.

 

The report:

 

The Picket Range has intrigued me since my first visit to the North Cascades, in September 2003. I did a bunch of easy scrambles on that trip, including a hike up Trappers Peak -- from which I first laid eyes on the Pickets. At that time, with only a handful of climbs under my belt, I never would have considered a trek among these glacier-flanked, intimidating spires. My interest in the subrange grew after reading about its reputation as the most rugged alpine region in the lower 48. What choice did I have? I had to go.

Only one Pickets peak appeared to have a climbing route feasible for a guy with limited technical mountaineering skill traveling solo: West McMillan Spire. The Terror Basin / West Ridge route sounded like a challenging scramble within my abilities.

With a few days off, and a promising weather forecast last week, I decided the time was right to explore the Pickets.

I arrived at Newhalem Campground around 9 p.m. Thursday after a brutally slow drive through Seattle-area rush hour traffic. I’ll never do that again. In the morning, I found the Goodell Creek way trail next to a large boulder near the parking area at Goodell Creek Group Campground. I left around 8:20 and hiked the brushy but well-defined path to its intersection with the Terror Basin climbers path (about 1.5 hours) -- which is marked with a big stone arrow in the middle of the trail. The path shoots straight up the hillside. I don't think I've ever gained so much elevation in so few steps carrying a full pack. After about two hours of relentless elevation gain, I emerged in the subalpine to awesome views.

From there, the climbers path is easy to follow through heather and mountain hemlock until a major dry creek bed crossing, where the route seems to break off in several directions. I had read reports directing me to climb the creek bed for 100 to 200 feet before locating the path next to a cairn. There were a bunch of cairns, and several paths that faded away. After wasting a few minutes searching for the “right” trail, I continued on my northeast bearing and eventually located a fairly well-defined path in the heather. (On my return trip, the way path I followed delivered me to the creek bed higher than the creek bed cairns, where water still flowed).

 

The scenery along this traverse is fantastic:

 

Mt. Triumph:

 

 

 

Mt. Despair:

 

 

 

I followed the path to a notch overlooking Terror Basin, then descended steeply over loose rock and snow to the rocky basin.

I guessed the climb would take about five hours round-trip from the basin, so I planned to head directly for the summit if I reached the basin by 2 p.m. -- which was exactly when I arrived.

However, clouds had enveloped the peaks by the time I set up my camp at a bivvy site near a large boulder and snow melt creek. My climb would be postponed to Saturday.

I’ve never had so much time to relax on a climbing trip. I passed the time by enjoying the scenery, taking photos, thinking deep thoughts, and picking out my climbing route after the clouds finally lifted:

 

 

I saw a couple of guys descend from the notch in late afternoon. They headed for a camp closer to the peaks.

I tried to retire early, but ended up moving my gear and camp after getting harassed by mice running over me and nibbling at my bivy sack near by head. Mice sketch me out a bit.

When I awoke around 4:30 a.m., it was quite windy and cold. So I stayed in my bag until first light, when I arose to this:

 

 

 

For those unfamiliar with the peak and route, it follows the snow/glacier at far left, then heads up the long, moderate rock ridge.

I left camp around 7 a.m. and traversed north-northwest over easy granite and heather to a glacial lake outlet. Cairns mark at least a couple of possible routes. I passed through the other climbers’ camp before the creek crossing, and caught up to them low on the ridge. They were waiting for high winds to die down before heading for Inspiration Peak. One of them told me they would keep an eye out for me on my way down McMillan Spire. Thanks guys!

Inspiration appears to be quite a hairy climb. I shot this from McMillan’s West Ridge:

 

 

The two dots in the middle-bottom of the frame are the climbers getting started (the leader is near the edge of a crevasse). I heard Terror Glacier ice break off and tumble at least twice during my climb.

The much mellower McMillan Spire route heads up nice granite slabs, a low-angle glacier, steep snow, and steep, loose rock to the col between Inspiration Peak and the spire.

The 30-minute climb up the easy granite (Class 1-2) was fun and beautiful. I strapped on crampons before climbing the hard glacier and higher-gradient (35-40 degrees) snow near the gully leading to the col. The exposure was not bad: a broad, open snow slope. I exited the glacier to the right below the end of the snow finger extending up the gully, then climbed a couple of Class 3 rock steps to gain access to a loose rock gully that delivered me to the west ridge. I never set foot on the Inspiration-McMillan col proper.

Based on trip reports I had read, I expected some exposed Class 3/4 scrambling on the ridge. Instead, I encountered easy and loose Class 2 and slabby Class 3. Even near the narrow ridge top, I never felt exposed. I arrived at the summit around 9:40.

Wow, what a beautiful, lonely, and special place -- well-worth the considerable physical effort (about 8,500 feet of elevation gain in total).

Just amazing:

 

 

 

 

I spent about 45 minutes at the summit before an uneventful and straightforward trip down. I saw just one small crevasse off my route to the right as I descended the sun-softened snow and glacier. I packed up and left the basin around 1:45.

 

A parting shot of McMillan Spires, Inspiration Peak, Mt. Degenhardt, Mt. Terror:

 

 

The hike back to the campground took about 4.5 hours. I was too tired for the five-hour drive to Portland so I picked up some IPA and pasta in Marblemount and spent another night at the Newhalem Campground.

This was a great climb -- one of my favorites. Physically demanding, relatively safe, and unbelievably scenic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ice Axe, Helmet, Crampons

[davidk]

Thanks for the excellent TR and pictures of the conditions. I visited Terror Basin this past spring for the first time, and after missing the turnoff to the climber path on the way up, my friend and I built that big stone arrow so that others may avoid the ridiculously steep bushwacking we encountered.

[Skeezix]

Nice job, PVD... Sounds like a great adventure. It takes some huevos to venture into Terror Basin alone. Way to step out there!

[curtveld]

No question about it, that's definitely Peter and me! Glad to know you enjoyed your weekend up there as much as we did, PVD.

 

You should have moved over to the bivy spots by Terror Creek - no critters whatsoever. Kind of spooky actually.

[PVD]

 

davidk, skeezix, curtveld -- thanks guys. It was a memorable trip.

 

Curtveld: I didn't see a report on your Inspiration climb. Which route did you take? I see west ridge, east ridge, and south face routes in Beckey's guide.

 

 

[curtveld]

I didn't see a report on your Inspiration climb. Which route did you take? I see west ridge, east ridge, and south face routes in Beckey's guide.

 

We climbed the southwest buttress, which was established since the latest Beckey. I posted a bit of beta on this older thread.

 

Nice solo effort btw

Edited September 26, 2008 by curtveld