Boston Basin Info

[Mike McLaughlin]

I'm coming in from out of town on 9/2 and I'm heading to Boston Basin with a buddy. I was looking for some beta on Forbidden's West Ridge and Buckner's North Face.

 

I did see the recent post on Forbidden. Looks like most people are using the rock access to the ridge rather than the couloir. Any info on this? I also had a few specific questions. If we decend the West Ridge, are 2 ropes necessary for the raps? What if we do the NE ledges descent, are 2 ropes needed? Which would you recommend?

 

Anyone been on the N side of Buckner recently? How are snow conditions and the schrund?

 

Thanks a lot,

Mike

 

 

 

[cfire]

You do not need two ropes for either the ledges descent or the west ridge. If the approach couloir to the ridge is out, then the rock access works just fine.

 

I saw the North face of Buckner a month ago and it looked pretty out of shape. I'd guess that now it is completely done. The north face couloir might be a possibilty, but the shrund can be iffy and it will be solid ice up the route while dodging golf balls in that bowling alley.

 

There are other great routes on Forbidden that you can do as well. The North Ridge and East ridge are worthy and you'll have the descent dialed after the West ridge.

[Mike McLaughlin]

thanks

[pup_on_the_mountain]

decend the West Ridge ... the NE ledges descent ... Which would you recommend?

If you climb the West Ridge, going down the same route will be easier, as you'll know where to go. The East Ledges could be a bit tricky, but is technically easier. The raps are all obvious, and once at the bottom of the last one, just start moving out East (there are no big "ledges" per se, but you can scramble easily).

 

Anyone been on the N side of Buckner recently? How are snow conditions and the schrund?

This picture from Aug 12 may help make up your mind .

 

[Clarence]

Tried the East Ridge this weekend. Buckner is out, as that picture shows. The coulior for the West Ridge looks a bit broken up, but I didn't get close enough to see for sure. I think you can force the route even if the coulior is shot, consult the Beckey Guide.

P.S. careful crossing that unnamed glacier on Forbidden, there were a lot of huge ice chunks sliding off in the afternoon last Saturday.

[Mike McLaughlin]

Ok, looks like Buckner is out of the question. I might change plans and do Forbidden in a day and then try something else on the other day. I was thinking about Serpentine ridge on Dragontail. Thanks again for the info.