[TR] Dragontail - Backbone with Fin Direct 8/9/2008

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Trip: Dragontail - Backbone with Fin Direct

 

Date: 8/9/2008

 

Trip Report:

I didn't want to mess with reports on the Backbone discussing the recent tragic loss of Andy Basque, so this is a little late. I'm sure you've all read enough TRs on Dragontail to not need anymore beta, but here are a few pics for the armchair mountaineers and others stuck at work: http://picasaweb.google.com/matthiesen/DragontailBackboneClimbAndEnchantmentsHike

 

Natalie, Cat, and I hiked in on Friday afternoon and warmed up with the second ascent of a nice short 5.8 near the lake that MountainMatt put up. Maybe he'll post a topo later as it was a fun close to the lake little climb that was great to do before dinner. Matt showed up later that evening with more gear so we could climb Dtail the next day. The ranger had told me there was a fatality there when I picked up my permit, but didn't know which route or anything, so we just went with the plan.

 

It rained several times that night so we woke early with strong thoughts of checking the weather and going beck to bed. It looked questionable, but not terrible, so we headed out anyways and it improved with daybreak as we reached the base of the route. We took aluminum crampons for the approach and ice axes for the descent but probably could have done it without either.

 

The route was super fun. I got the offwidth and used the #5 (old numbering) camalot and a #3 big bro that we hauled up there. It wasn't bad but the big gear was appreciated. I think for several pitches above that I stayed on or near the crest in fun 5.8-9 cracks but they sure were licheny and mossy so maybe most folks drop left into the gully? There are lots of options up there anyways. Mat took a surprise toprope whipper in the offwidth following me. I had led a full 67 meter pitch (my rope after an ice tool hit) and a big guy can stretch a 9.1 quite a ways even on TR. This put him in a grumpy mood, but we still did fine.

 

The Fin is everything people say it is. We headed up a little too soon and Matt got to do some runout lichen face climbing on the first pitch, but the rest were super cool, fun, exposed, well protected, etc. We made it to the top and enjoyed some fine Cuben cigars (thanks Matt) before heading down.

 

It took us about 12:45 from camp at the lake to the top and back to camp. We had some yummy phad thai and sunchips, a couple glasses of wine, and then hit the sack. Sunday Matt was kind enough to haul out the hardware and rope and Nat, Cat, and I finished via a pleasant hike through the Enchantments on Sunday and Monday.

 

Overall it was a pretty cool trip. My condolances to Andy's friends and family. Be safe in the mountains.

[Bug]

Sounds nice.

Except for the cigars. I can't handle tabacco anymore.

 

Thanks for the TR.