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Posted

The biggest apprehension I had was with previous TR's on leaving Big Beaver trail to get onto the ridge... something about bushwhacking and yellow jackets. For us at least, it was far less intimidating than what we had expected.

 

Look on the topo for a small but distinct bench, take a rough bearing and trend in that direction when you hit the bush threading through short hop cliff bands.

 

Linky from our trip last year.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

TR from '06

 

The ascent from Big Beaver to E-W is not overwhelming. We had no yellowjackets but obviously your mileage may vary.

 

I never finished editing the TR but the beta you want is in there- especially in the photos, and the full size ones are linked from the thumbnails.

 

You will bushwhack. It won't be like trail hiking but if you're mentally prepared for it, it's not insurmountable. It turned out to be much more reasonable than I expected and not nearly as bad as my personal high water mark of trying to schwack into the White Salmon on Shuksan after the valley melted out.

 

Once you attain the ridge, you're traveling above treeline and it's pretty cruiser. There are even some game/climbers trails to follow. Check out the pics, you'll see how wide and broad Beaver Pass is. When you get there, look for any major gully or cliff features and pick a line between/around them and start up. Keep checking above you for any additional obstacles and alter course as needed. That's what we did and it works pretty well.

 

Best of luck with it!

Posted

E-W ridge from beaver is easy. Head straight for it after 300-400 feet past the Big Beaver Shelter. Stay left in trees till you have to go right to avoid cliffs and some nasty brush ensues. Or head straight up 40 feet of class 3-4 rock and viola. There is some brush but it is not bad at all.

 

On ridge when in doubt stay high. There are plenty of boot tracks to follow. Stay high around Wiley Peak and its tiny glacier.

 

For challenger climb all you need are slings/biners. There are at least 4 pitons solidly in place for the whopping 50 feet of rock at the top. Take a 100 foot rope if you have it and save weight. You will run into a whopping 1 crevasse at the top which is easily cirumnavigated. 1 move of 5.4 at the start and the rest is class 4. Enjoying sitting on the summit block with your feet dangling 1000 feet over nothing!

 

Brian

PS lost a feathered friends down jacket over the side... If you can find it 1000 feet down, its yours!

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