FA of Tupshin Peak's North Face

[josephfazioli]

Alpinist Issue 21 shows a glorious picture of Tupshin Peak's North Face, and reports it as unclimbed. Does anyone know the veracity of this caption? I mean, it looks like it could have one or two great routes up it, and it surprises me that no one has tried it (or at least completed it) yet.

 

Any info?

 

Thanks.

[John Frieh]

Unclimbed. I know of a few people that have tried (myself included) but getting approach logistics to align with a weather window have thwarted a number of the attempts.

 

Any number of the lines on that face would be proud send

[Blake]

It's a big steep chossy wall.

 

 

I did the FA of the East Ridge/skyline a few years ago and explored at the base of the wall the day before, in addition to climbing across the top of it. We heard a few instances of spontaneuous rockfall, so I'd suggest sticking to the most prominent ribs and sheltered areas when possible.

 

Winter may have less of this, but the face gets almost no sun, and doesn't really form any ice to speak of. However, the approach isn't too bad (although probably involves 5,000'+ of elevation gain). If you go in the winter, bring your skis and plan on a ski trip with some possible climbing.

 

You can see the Stehekin Bakery from the summit, and if you get up there without some celebratory cookies or cinnamon rolls in your pack, you will regret it.