Needles Classic Routes

[W]

My wife and I are going to the Needles (CA) in September; it'll be our first time there. I have all the downloadable info from Clint Cummins' site and one other site,, it's good but it doesn't say much about quality ratings (although I'm guessing there is much that is good by any measure). Can anyone well acquainted with this area recommend a "must-do" list for a 6-8 day stay? We're going there for the crack climbing primarily, and will get plenty of face in elsewhere; looking for everything worthwhile from 5.7 up to 5.11.

 

Thanks in advance-

[Peter_Puget]

Don Juan fits your parameters and it is a GREAT route.

[pink]

spook book, the howling, fancy free, thin ice, the raven, igor, pit and penji, atlantis, spooky,tobins dihedral (dome rock) , terrorvision (bolted but way good), imaginary voyage, don juan.. it's fucking endless crack there, very inspirational.

[bigwallben]

-ankles away... (11c/d)

-wailing banshees..(11a/b)

-love potion #9 (10)

-White punks on Dope (8+)

 

say hello to the yellowjackets for me.

[RuMR]

hey Mark, you swinging by seattle in transit?

[W]

Thanks for the responses everyone, that should keep us busy and sated!

 

Rudy- I've been here for a month already. Working til end of August.

[RuMR]

are you back at RW?

 

We should hit index or sumpin'!

[clintcummins]

The starred routes from the "routes by rating" page, with Demon Dome routes removed:

 

199. White Punks on Dope 5.8/5.9 *

 

34. Spooky 5.9 *

51. Yellow Brick Road 5.9 *

56. Danse Macabre 5.9 * face

58. Love Potion #9 5.9 * face

120. Igor Unchained 5.9 *

185. Warlock South Face 5.9 or 5.11 *

192. Imaginary Voyage 5.9- *

 

126. Innersanctum 5.9+ *

 

46. Lethargy p1 5.10a *

118. Airy Interlude 5.10a *

132. Phosphorescent Flow 5.10a R * face

165. The Howling 5.10a * face crux

 

47. Lethargy (full) 5.10b R *

96. Thin Ice 5.10b *

103. Fancy Free 5.10b *

134. The Pit and the Pendulum 5.10b A0 or 5.10+ *

170. The Spell 5.10b * fist+squeeze

 

123. The Entity 5.10c * or 5.10+ R

148. No More Mister Nice Guy 5.10c R * face

 

86. Davy Jones' Locker 5.12b or 5.10d A1 *

123. The Entity 5.10c * or 5.10+ R

124. Spook Book 5.10d *

134. The Pit and the Pendulum 5.10b A0 or 5.10+ *

135. The Pit and the Pendulum - direct chimney 5.10+ *

193. Shadows in the Rain 5.10d * face

 

98. Lost at Sea 5.11a

 

90. Wailing Banshees 5.11a/b

 

40. The Raven 5.11b * stemming

93. Don Juan Wall 5.11b *

97. Atlantis 5.11b *

 

139. Terrorvision 5.11b/c * face

185. Warlock South Face 5.9 or 5.11 *

 

116. Pegleg 5.11d R * stemming

117. Ankles Away 5.11d *

 

Normally the must-dos are:

- Airy Interlude and/or Igor Unchained

- Don Juan Wall

- Thin Ice

- Atlantis

- Spooky

- Fancy Free

- The Howling

 

Have fun!